Bowsprit sail rig

[Reg Barker]

I have damaged my bowsprit. This has split down the centre from a central position towards the bow. I have decided to make one out of a hard wood rather than pine. As I have had my rig altered to the Mk2 BRe, I have decided, if I can, I would like to re-use the self-tacking Jib occasionally. This would involve lengthening boom. What I would like to know is: if I move the forestay ring and drum that the sail is attached to on the new bowsprit (Mk2 BRe rig) 6”- 8” forward   would I encounter a problem? In other words would the sail angle be wrong? Technical views would be appreciated.

[Peter Cockerton]

Reg

Will this not result in the boom catching the deck. The forestay angle will increase in relation with the mast with the tack going forward, the clew will drop and possibly cause the aft end of the boom to drop as well. With the tack going forward yo may be able to shorten the boom and gain sufficient clearance from the foredeck.

If you don't currently have a bobstay will this arrangement call for one with the increased tension from the forestay.

Rig balance due to jib going forward, probably too small a modification to make any impact.

That's my thoughts if it helps

Peter Cockerton

[Tony]

Any reason you can't fit the forestay to the new bowsprit with a traveller? (A movable cranse iron, if you like.) That way you can move the forestay to suit the sail. A hefty turning block at the traveller and a bit of dynema would take care of the luff/forestay tension.
If you can get hold of a tough enough CF tapered tube as the shortish bowsprit required, you won't need a bobstay, so it would be possible to 'reel in' the forestay to the stem for sail changing on the fly!
Look to CLassic Marine for the bits http://www.classicmarine.co.uk/articles/Gaffergear/bowsprit2/Bowsprit%20Article.htm
http://carbonspars.co.uk. and others for spars.

[Reg Barker]

Peter & Tony

Thank you for your replies. In my paragraph I had said “lengthening boom”. It should have read “lengthening bowsprit” not boom.

Therefore by lengthening the bowsprit this would allow me to re-attach the self-tacking boom to the original position on the bow of the boat allowing the boom to swing. What I was concerned about was the angle of the forestay by moving it forward by 8” from its original position, if that would have any effect on the foresail. In my mind I don’t think it will but I may be wrong.

The bowsprit already has a bobstay.

The Classic Marine was a useful article Bitts & Bobs(tays). Bowsprits and their Associated Fittings.
This gave me a better understanding. Thanks

[steve jones]

Hello Reg,

If you sail in Cardiff Bay, and live near, I can show you an example of a bowsprit that I fitted to my BR17.
 I didn't like to rely on the luff of the jib as a forestay, so fitted a small bowsprit that acts as a stay, but is able to take a large jib or genoa.

Once the length of the bowsprit has been decided, the geometry of inboard end can  determine the  alignment with the centre line. I bought the cranse iron from Classic Marine. and used an old spar that I had.
Mine is detachable ,and can be  retracted in the boat.
I'll look for photos if you want
I built the boat , so it's wood, but can't see any problems with fitting through GRP.

Steve J BR17 Nona Me

Most BR20's have a facility for a spinnaker pole,

[Matthew P]

Hi Steve

I would like to avoid relying on the jib luff as a forestay too.  Photographs of your bowsprit arrangement would be very helpful.

Thanks

Matthew
BR20 GRP Gladys

[steve jones]

Hi Matthew,

  The only snaps I have found, show an older rig, I have made a small mod' on those illustrated .

  One photo is on passage between Falmouth and Helford,  I always go to 'sea' with a cut down main, demonstrating my lack of the gung-ho gene .
  The other is at Ruan Lanihorne( trip that is a must , up the river Fal were it forks to Malpas/Truro, outstanding natural beauty tricky navigation , best rowed or sculled, outboards, can be carried but would be an abomination, Ordnance Survey 1: 50k ideal)

End of travelog.

Bowsprit:-
   This is inserted where I think some boats have a spinnaker facility and in the same way is able to retracted. I used an old Douglas Fir spar, cut to the required length, and bought a cranse iron  from Classic Marine. I have done away with the club boom ,so it is a conventional jib. An other requirement is a fiddle block at mast head and additional cleat. I also fitted an Inglefield ? clip so I can attach a genoa if needed. The bobstay shown has been replaced with small handy billy, brought back via the port fairlead to a capstan on the foredeck. The thrust pad is adjusted to line the end of the bowsprit with the centreline. I tension both jib luff and  bowsprit using a Lorry drivers knot.

Hope this is of some use

Steve

[Matthew P]

Thanks Steve for your photos, description and Falmouth pilot notes as a bonus.  Your solution is nice and simple and the cranse iron (great name) makes a nice finishing touch. 

Do you ever have trouble with the head of the jib fouling the forestay?  I intend to keep my club boom and self-tacking job but fit the separate forestay as belt and braces. So the forestay will need to be slightly slack to allow the jib boom to do its thing and keep the luff taut.

Matthew
BR20 Gladys

[Graham W]

Matthew,

Just to let you know that I’m keeping an eye on proceedings from 2500m up in Addis Ababa.  And yes, it’s another glorious sunny day.  Not that I’m gloating or anything.

I think you were on board Turaco once when the top furler swivel got tangled up with another bit of string.   Barton mention the use of a thin round piece of Perspex slipped over the top of the swivel to act as a spacer and keep the two apart – see http://www.bartonmarine.com/tech-info-jib-furling-fitting-instructions.asp, towards the bottom of the page.

Ronstan sell a top swivel with a forestay guard built in http://www.ronstan.com/marine/product.asp?ProdNo=RF1247.  However, it may be too long for the standard jib luff length and risk getting caught up in the blocks at the top of the mast.  It’s more useful for second foresails with a bit of extra luff length.

There’s also the halyard crane, first mentioned by Guy Rossey in relation to his code zero here: http://www.swallowyachtsassociation.org/smf/index.php/topic,721.msg5265.html#msg5265  It needs to be strong enough to hold a forestay up and out.  If used for this purpose, I strongly recommend that it is reinforced as described a bit further down in that thread.

Attached a picture of my halyard crane in place but unrigged.  I'm using a wide parrel bead on the jib swivel to stop it fouling my jib boom topping lift (the white bit of string).

[Reg Barker]

Hi Lads   (whiz kids on the street)

I think we are getting off what I originally asked. I obviously neglected to say that my boat is a Bay Raider Expedition with a fixed Bowsprit (BRe20). I think, if I remember correctly, Graham had set this arrangement up on his boat although it’s a BR20. So in layman’s terms, I don’t think moving the forestay sail forward 8” on the bowsprit would have much effect.  True or False?  Thanks Regards. Reg


Steve Jones.  I will be down in Cardiff in January on a Saturday. We can meet up then. I will send an e-mail to you, if that’s okay.