Jib Halyard Camcleat

[BobT]

I am about to replace the jib halyard Clamcleat (CL228) on the cabin top of my BRe as it no longer always grips securly (plastic teeth worn) and it's also a pain when lowering the mast (keeps locking the halyard off). Currently the jib halyard comes through the centre roller of the deck tidy. I was thinking that it would be more logical if it came through the one nearest the mast leaving the other two for jib furling and unfurling.  Have I missed something?
Oh I'm looking to replace with a spinlock clutch XAS the same as I have for the main halyard.
The attached photo shows the halyard as is, coming through the centre roller of the deck tidy and I am looking to move it to the right.

[Sea Simon]

My boat does not have the horn cleats, it had spinlock clutches from new. Mostly pretty good, but I REALLY don't like having "critical functions", like the jib halyard (potential forestay loss!) on a clutch, worse still in a bank of clutches; potential for disaster with a simple action really worries me. Necessary I guess to allow winch-thru of halyard to tension jib? I try to get in the habit of making off my halyard around the wich so the mast cant move if the clutch is inadvertently opened.

The small plastic clamcleats are a waste of money, modern hard ropes cut them in no time. Mine serve the assim tack line, the furling line, and a spinni pole down haul.
I've changed all 4 of mine for the hard alloy type, after two failed.
These Clamcleats also have the option "keepers" over them, so as to prevent the false cleating misery that you describe; they work well.

Ill see if I can find a link.

[Sea Simon]

This is from my ebay history, but double check sizes.

Clamcleat 3-6 Mm Fishing Accessories Racing Junior Mk1 Hard Anodised 49485
direct replacements, no drilling
Simple ridged v groove holds ropes firmly yet is devoid of any moving parts to break or seize. They are unaffected by the heat generated by a rope surging back through a cleat as well as being suitable for sub-zero temperatures.
 
Rope size is 3-6mm.
Material - Aluminium - Hard anodised
Dimension - L 82mm, Between Holes 66mm, Width 18mm
Bolt Size - M5
Screw Size 4.8mm
Weight - 35 grms


keepers.
Not sure this is the right size for those cleats, but this is the accessory to search for:
https://www.clamcleat.com/products/accessories/keeper-for-mk2-racing-juniors.html
his accessory expands the capability of conventional Clamcleat® rope cleats. The Award Winning CL815 Keeper has been designed to overcome the problem of lines being cleated accidentally as well as improving performance by holding lightly-loaded lines in the jaws of a cleat when mounted upside down. When using a cleat fitted with a Keeper, the operation and performance is completely transformed. The lead-in makes cleating a line easier and there is a satisfying and positive click as the line is released or cleated.

These benefits mean that Clamcleat® rope cleats can now be used on control lines that are adjusted frequently. When a halyard or control line is released from a cleat fitted with a Keeper, the Keeper will stop it falling back into the cleat and re-cleating, for example when dropping a spinnaker during a race or the mainsail when unrigging ashore. A patent has been applied for the innovative Keeper.

[Graham W]

This probably isn’t relevant to jib halyard arrangements but if you’re going to get the CL815 keeper for any purpose, I recommend the CL817 cage to go with it.  I use a hard anodised CL211 Clamcleat with keeper and cage to hold the tack line for my flying jib/code zero/asymmetric.  The tack line is routed from the end of my bowsprit to the top of my centreboard capping, near the tiller.  The Clamcleat cage allows the tack line to be tensioned or released from nearly any direction, all without moving parts.  Very useful if the sail at the front needs depowering in a hurry.

You can get all three Clamcleat items as a package https://www.clamcleat.com/in-line-cl817-cage-with-cl211-mk2-cleat-cl815-keeper.html.  Always go with the hard anodised version.

[Sea Simon]

Good point GW.

My cleats already had keepers, and I forgot about those cages.
They are indeed very good.

[BobT]

Many thanks SS & GW. Good point about clutch and a single point of failure. I will tie off the halyard to the horn cleat once raised. The key part of my question is whether it is OK to run the halyard through the inboard deck tidy pully rather than the center one. My assumption is not a problem but we all know what assumptions do !!!