Swallow Yachts Forum > Technical

Glue/sealant question

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Charles Scott:
Sea Simon, I am interested in your remarks about CT1, as I have just bought some to fix new rubbing strakes on my Bayraider 20. May I ask in what way were your results mixed? Removing the remains of the old strakes has been ( is being ) quite a job, whatever they were stuck on with before ( black colour, presumably Sikaflex or the Bostik mentioned by you and Graham ) being the very devil to take off.  The remains of the old strakes ( partially rotted from years of neglect , some mine, but most by the previous owner, Plymouth university) having to be chiselled off and destroyed in the process. In my naivete, I had thought I would take out the screws, and then simply peel off the strakes . Ha Ha!  It proves the yard's black stuff is very effective anyway, but I hope I haven't done the wrong thing buying CT1 instead.  I also have to replace the old white sealant in the join between the cockpit floor and sides, as this has degraded after being exposed to UV light during its University years living on a  pontoon, in the Plymouth sun ( a lot closer to the equator than Co.Mayo where I keep my boat.)

Sea Simon:
Interesting...Plymouth Uni (my v v long ago Alma Mater, a humble Poly back then...).
I viewed these three then very much unloved boats at QAB marina,  Plymouth in 2017. All a bleddy disgrace, and I told the Uni bosun so. I offered to buy a melange of the best of the 3 (having picked thru the Sails, spars and trailers too) but my low offer was somewhat "ungraciously refused"...I  left all 3 behind and brought a BRe! Have mentioned these boats on here before!
Would never have happened in my day, etc, etc..... ;)

CT1. I've had good results bonding and sealing internally, but this formulation seems perhaps less tolerant of seawater and/or UV when used externally? The "beige" shade is usefully tonal with the off white yard finishes.
The yard Bostik stuff seems good?

Latest experience was a pal who used CT1 to fix his saildrive fairing diaphragm to the Hull (not a Swallow boat). Very  poor results, failed in weeks. I did mine with RHiB repair materials and no sign of movement, peeling or detachment of any sort at the end of season. Of course, any adhesive application to used items as a repair (even more so than production use, on new materials in more controlled conditions) can be very variable.

Others on here will be better placed than me to advise on your particular application, I suspect?

PS . I'm closer even than Plymouth  to the equator  8)

Charles Scott:
Thank you Sea Simon.  I have now sent off for the Bostik.   
   Anyone need 2 tubes of CT 1 going cheap ?!

garethrow:
Charles
If you haven't finished removing your rubbing strakes / batteling with the Bostick glue, a good tip I picked up from the  yard is to use a sawing motion with long pieces of cheese wire to cut through the glue. This does work but you get through a lot of wire as it gets very hot - hot enough to alter the tempering of the wire which then tends to kink and snap. I did this to get my locker fender tie off rails off for varnishing.

Regards
Gareth Rowlands
GRP BR20 Halen Y Mor

Charles Scott:
Thank you for that tip Gareth.  I had thought along those lines, but decided instead to sharpen a wallpaper stripping tool and used that to chisel off the second strake, walloping it with a mallet.  This was much quicker  than using a regular chisel, and I was able to remove the strake complete, unlike on the other side where my chiselling completely destroyed it. ( I say complete but actually some of it fell apart , rot having got in to several places where it had been damaged by careless university people)

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