Gas spring for lockers

[globetrot]

Sometimes a small modification can go a long way in making something much more user friendly. The video Matt posted (https://youtu.be/NQ4YrFLLd00?si=ktuKIWKCVGtDuspY) demonstrating the new anchoring system in the BRe intrigued me. Yes, the anchoring system is cool, but I really liked the gas springs. On more than one occasion, I have dared to use two hands to work inside the locker instead of using one to hold the locker lid open, only to have the lid slam shut on my arms or head.

I asked Matt if he could provide the part numbers so I could install it and he was kind enough to provide me with the instructions sheet.

Good so far.

The one question I have left to answer is how the top fastener for the gas spring is attached to the locker lid. The fiberglass can't be more than 5mm thick and on the opposite side is Flexiteek. Swallow Yachts says it is through-bolted, but if you look closely in the video, it doesn't appear as if any hardware is visible on top of the Flexiteek. It is fastened before the Flexiteek is installed? If so, I wonder how they were able to keep the fastener flush enough to still allow the Flexiteek to be installed.

If this is the case, then I'll have to get a bit creative so I don't remove the Flexiteek but still have the structural integrity. I could countersink a flat head Torx bolt in the Flexiteek so it is flush and fasten the it to the gas spring bracket with a lock nut. OR, are some shallow screws with 5200 enough to hold the lid bracket in the long run?

Does anyone have the gas springs installed on their boat? If so, I'd love to get a closer look at what the top side of the locker looks like. Is the hardware visible?

[MarkF]

If the locker cover thickness proves to be insufficient, could you bond on and fibreglass over a 6mm ply pad (or similar) to give the screws some depth? 

A bit of a scruffy and inelegant solution, but maybe not too noticeable if painted with white gel coat.  And you could leave your Flexiteek alone.  Might require the lower wooden block to be slightly different dimensions?

I can't see how a factory-fitted through-hole solution would work for those without Flexiteek - you'd end up sitting on the end of the fastener.

[The Lazy Sheet]

Hi Globetrot
Can you share the drawing and part number?
I'm definitely interested.
Thanks
Willie

[globetrot]

The Osculati part numbers are:

2x Gas springs 38.009.05
4x Bases 38.013.68

These are the instruction docs I have, plus the dimensions for the wood base.

Swallow Yachts has kindly provided them to me, but with the caveat that they are incapable of supplying additional information or assistance due to capacity restrictions.

[The Lazy Sheet]

Having roughly priced up the gas spring, it seemed to be a bit OTT and some other methods for propping open the locker lids seemed a little fiddly. I therefore had various thoughts and have opted for a really simple solution, as per the attached photo. However, this may only work on boats with spray hoods, like my BRe. Apart from its simplicity, it doesn't require any drilling or alterations.
A piece of 4mm elastic is tied to the spray hood frame using a cable tie (where the hood tensioning strap is located, i.e. about 300mm above the base).
A small block is cable-tied to the base pivot of the spray hood frame.
The elastic is threaded through the block and has a hook (metal or plastic) tied to the end (I used a fisherman's hitch). The elastic is tuned for length so it's at maximum extension when deployed.
A short length of 3mm line is tied around the locker handle (I used a fisherman's knot).
Total cost - £5-10 max, if you need to buy all the parts.
I've not used it in anger yet but am pretty confident about the success of planned sea trials.

[garethrow]

Looks good Willie, I may well try this once it stops raining loing enough to take the winter covers off ....

Gareth Rowlands
GRP BR20 Halen Y Mor

[Graham W]

I've done something similar on my BR20, except that mine's the other way around and my locker rail bungee hooks into a small lacing eye strap (below) that I've screwed into the side of the wooden oarlock base on each side.  I've tried stout spring struts on the lockers but eventually they always become kinked and are then unusable.  This is a longer lasting and much cheaper solution than the struts, although it usually needs both hands to hold the locker lid up and attach the hook.

[johnguy]

I get my wife to hold the locker open. It is an expensive solution of uncertain durability but requires no modification to the boat.

[The Lazy Sheet]

John - I looked into the wife-holding option but, for me, the costs were extortionate: installing heads, galley, state room etc.

[johnguy]

I can see the issue. Bribery helps but is not infallible.

[globetrot]

Thought I'd follow up this post with the outcome of my project.

Using the plans I got from the boatyard, I decided to implement an identical solution. I'm very pleased with the way it turned out. It really makes the lockers more maneagble, especially when I am singe-handed.

One of the issues I had to overcome was how to attach the top bracket to the locker lid. Opposite the lid is the flexiteak/sitting area and the GRP is quite thin, which means that I could use a bolt to fasten the bracket. I ultimately used two short screws and Sika 291i adhesive. So far this has proven to create a very strong bond.