Swallow Yachts Forum > Technical
BRe rope specifications - mainsail hoisting issues
Roger A:
Thanks everyone for your very helpful replies.
I’ve modified the topic so it describes the real issue that I’m trying to solve - why is my BRe mainsail so difficult to hoist when other owners report that it is an easy task?!
I’ve been working through the possible causes..
Spinlock clutch- works well
Deck blocks - all working well
Track - now carefully cleaned and lubricated with Sailkote Mclube - will see if that helps.
Halyard - badly worn near masthead end and seems too big for the masthead block - replace with smaller line? And possibly dyeema?!
Headboard- is metal but I’ve been using the higher of the two attachment points so will try the lower one per Andrew’s advice.
The masthead block - position alongside the track seems strange to me but Andrew’s is the same although his block is different see pics of mine. May change the block, move its position, cut off the top part of the track.
Will report on progress.
Thanks again for your comment’s more very welcome!
Roger
Ape Ears:
Roger, I was tempted to cut off the top of the track and realign the masthead block too, but this was unnecessary when other sources of friction were removed. For example outhaul, reefing lines, downhauls and Cunningham all need to be well slackened off.
The main halyard is at a 45 degree angle when fully hoisted when the lower hole in the headboard is used. Also make sure the halyard is not crossed over the track and is on the same side as the sheave when hoisting.
It helps to have the boom elevated with the lazyjacks when hoisting the main.
It looks as if the top of your mast has been replaced. Is this indicative of previous stress if friction has not been reduced ?
It should not be necessary to use the winch to hoist the main.
Can you also try topping or tailing the halyard, or reverse it upside down, to lose the frayed section, before incurring unnecessary expense ?
Kind regards, Andrew
Graham W:
--- Quote from: Sea Simon on 16 Apr 2024, 09:49 ---I find Camcleat power grip cleats are excellent for sweating up smaller D, hard ropes like the BRe main halyard.
You can occasionally find them as low as £8. If you are like me, I suggest buying two!
https://www.clamcleat.com/power-grip-1.html
--- End quote ---
If you need to get a grip on larger diameter strings, don’t be tempted to buy one of these substantially more expensive French alternatives https://www.force4.co.uk/item/Karver/Jaws-Handle-Grey/JBN. I had one that snapped in two under not very much tension at all. I got my money back from Karver under guarantee, although not before being treated like some sort of malicious fraudster.
Sea Simon:
--- Quote from: Ape Ears on 16 Apr 2024, 11:41 ---Roger, I was tempted to cut off the top of the track and realign the masthead block too, but this was unnecessary when other sources of friction were removed. For example outhaul, reefing lines, downhauls and Cunningham all need to be well slackened off.
The main halyard is at a 45 degree angle when fully hoisted when the lower hole in the headboard is used. Also make sure the halyard is not crossed over the track and is on the same side as the sheave when hoisting.
It helps to have the boom elevated with the lazyjacks when hoisting the main.
It looks as if the top of your mast has been replaced. Is this indicative of previous stress if friction has not been reduced ?
It should not be necessary to use the winch to hoist the main.
Can you also try topping or tailing the halyard, or reverse it upside down, to lose the frayed section, before incurring unnecessary expense ?
Kind regards, Andrew
--- End quote ---
Yes, All of the above!
However, it never occurred to me to use the lower headboard hole (if there was one?). I did resort to mechanically "fairing/easing" its sharp angry aluminim edges. No other mods.
Never needed to winch. My only issue was damaging the halyard.
Main always went up/down easily, once track was cleaned n lubed.
PeterDT:
I had the same problems with hoisting the main.
Two tips (worked for me):
- clean rail at the start of the season with brush and water (car washing tools) and when dry spray with sometihing like PTFE spray
- use a bead at the end of the main halyard instead of a knot (hopefully visible on the photo) to minimise the lenght of rope between the the top sheave and the top eye. Also better alingment, IF you use the bead on the right side. You will see!
My mainhalyard is the 6 mm rope that came with the boat, after 10 years of use it is still OK but now 7 mm.
The photo shows the top of the sail when reefed. Hope this helps.
BR
Peter
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