More BR20 mods

[Graham W]

Three new modifications:
1.  Control lines for the spinnaker pole (tack line, tack quick release line, pole outhaul line) are now led through the inside of the pole so that the spinnaker (and new flying jib) can be better controlled from inside the cockpit.
2.  A new triangular wooden brace for the underside of the tabernacle, to banish sagging lee shroud misery. 
3.  When in position, the brace prevents the white cockpit infill from being lifted up, so I have removed the latter altogether (except when camping) and replaced it with a reversible wooden thwart.  One side, used when sailing, has pegs to keep halyard and control line spaghetti under control.  The reverse, smooth side is used when rowing. And a large stowage space in front of the centreboard case is suddenly much more accessible

Swallow Boats made the last two for me.  None have been used in anger yet. Pictures below.

[Peter Cockerton]

Graham

Not one for making changes without understanding and appreciating the benefits can you help me with lee shroud misery. Until you raised it i was happy with the shroud becoming slack because the mast was under tension from wind and sail pressure which was under control with the windward shroud. What misery have i not experienced yet in my limited sailing to date. If the problem is aleviated with the brace does it meen that new forces are placed through the stainless tabernacle in a downward direction on the brace and reduced because the foredeck is now not flexing.

With regards to control lines i like the idea of bringing them into the cockpit as most of my sailing is solo and although i have a spinnaker i have not flown due to lack of confidence on keeping the boat under control. My question is on the tack release, are you saying that under extreme circumstances you would release the tack line and let the spinnaker/flying jib blow out rather than releasing the sheets.

The cockpit infill is useful for putting sails and other items under when trailering to keep them out of the wind when as i like most other people trail without the cover on, however the free access to the bow would also be very much appreciated. You mention removing the brace when camping surely this must be firlmy secured if acting as a brace to transfer mast forces and therefore some effort to remove.

I also like the idea of the dual purpose thwart as again it brings some of the lines currently cleated of on the mast more accessable into the cockpit and probably easier to access without the boat changing course when i go forward with the tiller taimer on. Also a handy place to keep mooring lines, when you change to a front rowing position will you the cleat some of the lines back on the mast again.

[Graham W]

Peter,

The brace reduces a small amount of flexing in the foredeck which in turn means that the mast and tabernacle (and thus the mainsail and jib) stand up better to windward forces.  A stiffer topmast has a similar beneficial effect on the mainsail. So it all generates more power

The spinnaker tack release is not just for emergencies (although it is an extra precautionary control to letting go the sheets under more extreme circumstances).  It also helps with dropping the spinnaker when solo. The routine is: release the tack; let go the halyard; pull in the spinnaker over the side using the leeward sheet; bundle it out of the way to sort out later.

The tabernacle brace is fairly easily removed.  The brace foot is kept in place on the forward seat extensions by wooden guides each side and the horizontal brace top is secured by a bolt and butterfly nut through an eye bolted into the buttress under the foredeck.

The dual purpose thwart will help keep all forward strings (and with the spinnaker there are a lot of them) under control when sailing.  When rowing, it is back to spaghetti junction.

Like you, the spinnaker makes me nervous when sailing solo in any sort of wind.  So I have had a flying jib made which is less than a fifth the size of the spinnaker and must be much easier to handle (I have not tried it yet). It is rigged in the same way as the spinnaker, off the retractable pole. Like the spinnaker, it is mostly for use on a broad reach through to a close(ish) reach. To stop the spinnaker pole bending like a banana, I have spliced a pair of bowsprit shrouds.  These drop over the forward mooring cleats each side and are secured to the forward end of the pole to help resist lateral forces. Like the new bobstay, they are made from blue Spectra 12 strand (see original photo of pole), which is really easy to splice. In theory, this should help me fly the flying jib on a closer reach.  We shall see!

Graham

[Michael Rogers]

Phew! The jibe (no, not gybe) about 'lots of string" used to be levelled at junk rig, but I reckon you BR sailors are doing OK in that department. Don't wave it about at Tony, or he might get over-excited - although hIs CBL is not exactly a minimal-string area either. I like the part-time invertible pin rail; it has cats cradle potential (do kids still do those?)

Belated New Year's greetings, one and all. I have it on good authority - namely my own examination of tea leaves - that from Easter to late October is going to be mainly dry, with prolonged spells of sunshine and winds mainly F3-5.

Michael

[Mike Davis]

Graham - first time I have looked at the Forum and pleased to read so many useful posts. Somewhat heretically I use the BR20 as a sailing motor launch off Anglesey (modified to take 15hp Honda), picnics, fishing, lobster potting, club rescue, towing and some handicap racing. We often sail her hard with water ballast in F4-6 and the BR suffers excessive lee-shroud sagging and banana bend in the carbon topmast which means she doesn't achieve her upwind potential. The boat's stability is good enough to stand up to much more drive if I can fix these. Does the triangular reinforcement under the bridge deck really work? And have you a view on whether and where it is possible to buy a very stiff top mast carbon spar? Or should I switch to wood?

There is a lot of drag from the wide centreboard slot, have you done anything to reduce this?

Do you know if anybody has fitted an electric pump to drain the water ballast simply and quickly?

Mike Davis

[Graham W]

Mike,

I haven't tried the triangular section in high winds yet but I am sure it will work.

High carbon spars are the way to go (maybe with a unidirectional sheath). Speak to Matt who can help you out.

I had a small copper foil in front of the centreboard slot to reduce drag but I think it interfered with the transducer for the Garmin, so I took it off again.

I think the general consensus is that if you fit bung holes in the aft wall of the ballast tank and good self bailers in the sump, then an electric bilge pump is not necessary.  Do a search on Craic's contributions and you will see that he has gone from electric bilge pump to sump self bailers and prefers the latter. I have only ever had the latter and they work well.

Graham

[Julian Swindell]

Just to add some comments on the sagging lee shroud discussion. I wouldn't worry about it, it is pretty normal in any non-racing boat. I think it is an inevitable characteristic of the self tacking jib. There is no forestay, so the shrouds will never be super tense. If they were, you would either snap the jib boom on its pivot, or rip the jib itself.
If you look at the photo of Matt sailing the Bayraider expedition, which has a Bermudan mast and self tacking jib, the lee shroud is completely loose and curving beautifully.

http://www.swallowboats.co.uk/images/stories/swallowboats/BRe/cCRW_0163.jpg

[Julian Swindell]

If your weather shroud goes slack, THEN you should worry.

[Karen Haris]

What is the use of triangular wooden brace?

[Graham W]

What is the use of triangular wooden brace?

I am sure I can think of some novel uses for you and your like.