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Imho...Given that this pumps duty is to empty a ballast tank (and so, it's planned to run it dry at some point?), I'm  not surprised that this type of flexible lobe pump is starting to struggle as it ages. Never mind the inverted fitment causing sealing issues too!

These pumps depend almost entirely on the flexibility of the vane materials to operate, although casings will wear if pumping gritty/sandy water. I was astounded how much sand came in with the water ballast on my BRe, particularly when I  inadvertently left the fill/drain plug out while moored over sand for a few tides. So much sand that I  needed to actively flush the tank with a hose, while the boat was on a concrete slipway. Not that the Bre had a pump to fret about, but sand is HEAVY!
All vanes also need to be intact. If a vane is shed, try to find it!
These pumps are known to have relatively low suction capabilities.

Try fitting a new impeller? Apparently there are two different materials used, nitrile rubber or polyurethane.

Copy parts are cheap enough (buy several, you'll need them if you plan to run it dry), they are imho acceptable for this non critical  duty (although I wouldn't fit some of these knock-offs to the similar pumps fitted for diesel engine critical cooling systems),   and they are easily fitted with simple tools.
An occasional dob of silicon grease (or Johnson pump lube - glycerine) thru that brass plug on the suction port might help lengthen service life?

Try and seal the suction line that is drawing air.

Perhaps fit a foot valve to the suction line, to try to keep fluid in the pump after it stops. The Whale bilge suction strainers can come with a foot (non return) valve incorporated.



2
Well the pump is all back together again now, and reinstalled on the boat yesterday. Turning it the other way up was slightly more involved than it should be on other boats as I have my fridge compressor mounted on the bulkhead and it gets in the way of the inlet hose. Without the compressor in the way you should be able to just turn it 180 degrees upside down and screw it back in the same holes. I had to glue another pad on a bit higher up, and it's also angled to give a better run for the hoses - see photo. When you turn it the other way up you will need to change the direction of pumping. You can either just switch the 12v wires round so the motor runs the other way, or you can turn the pump head 180 degrees. Switching the wires might sound easier, particularly as you may need to add more wire with the motor being further away, but it could cause confusion in future with the black supply wire connected to the red motor wire. Turning the pump head is just a matter of removing two nuts, turning it round and putting it back on again, so pretty simple.
One thing that I've noticed over time is that the system leaks air, so I have to prime the pump using the hand pump first otherwise it fails to suck the water up high enough to get to the pump. I think some air is getting in via the ballast/bilge changeover valve as you can see bubbles in the pipe, and also air is being drawn backwards through the Whale hand pump, and this is in spite of me installing a non-return valve in the line. Once it's sucking water it's ok, but it still slowly sucks the water back from the hand pump until after about 5 minutes it's just sucking air again and needs another few pumps on the handle. It takes about 20-25 minutes to empty the tank, but I seem to remember when new it took 15-20. 
If you want any info about refurbishing the motor then let me know.

(For some reason the thumbnail photo is rotated 90 but it's the right way up when you click on it for full size?)
3
Technical / Re: Running rigging diagram for bay cruiser 26
« Last Post by AndyB on 11 May 2024, 20:04 »
Welcome to the band of BC26 owners. 

I also had a Liberty 22 ( Rubato) - the very first one and kept it for around 20 years, also run their website. The BC26 is a step up and completely different - has more room, is bigger and faster. I have had mine for 2 years now but still sometimes yearn after the 22 with its simplicity. But then I remember the long journeys up Southampton water which is so much quicker in the BC26.

I would be very interested in hearing on your thoughts about moving. Where are you sailing?

Best regards
Andy.
4
Technical / Re: BC26 (and possibly other boats) ballast pump problem
« Last Post by AndyB on 11 May 2024, 19:55 »
Hi Nick,

I have exactly the same setup so I guess this is a standard installation. Thought it would be easy to turn it around but not so sure now.

Seeing my boat is still non-sailable it would be great if you could let us all know how you changed it and I will copy.

Thanks
Andy
5
For Sale and Wanted / Re: BRe HOMER coming to the market
« Last Post by Llafurio on 10 May 2024, 22:22 »
The mast compression post inside the cabin was made removable for more comfortable overnighting. Notice the giant size beanbag which serves both as versatile bedding, and as emergency buoyancy.
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For Sale and Wanted / Re: BRe HOMER coming to the market
« Last Post by Llafurio on 10 May 2024, 22:16 »
Here a few photos, now with the original USA Bermudan rig.
This rig and mainsail was never used, as I prefer the gunter rig. So mast and mainsail for sale with the boat are new.
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Technical / Re: Topping lift
« Last Post by PeterDT on 10 May 2024, 16:44 »
The photo's show the deck layout and the mast head. The blue line is the Dyneema 4 mm topping lift halyard. The blocks are small blocks with ball bearings.
Something like this https://www.harken.com/en/shop/micro/22-mm-block/
I was assuming you have a jib boom., but looking at photo's from the newer BRe's i see some with a mainsail boom lift. My boat is one of the earlier BRE's (nr. 7).
But for the main sail boom it would be similar, with the line going to the aft end of the boom. It needs to be slackened when sailing, so it won't obstruct the mainsail shape.
This is the simple version, may you have something more sophisticated in mind. May be the Forum readers with a recent BRe can post some photo's.
BR
Peter
8
Hi,
If you use a thicker halyard, you will get more friction in the sheaves. Making hoisting harder! And 8 mm is still a thin line to pull with your hand. If you use a cunningham line (strongly recommended), you do not need to hoist the main superthight!
BR
Peter
9
Technical / Re: Topping lift
« Last Post by PeterDT on 10 May 2024, 10:05 »
Hello Jane,
Rigging the topping lift is quite easy. I will send you details of my boat in the course of today/this weekend.
BR
Peter
10
Technical / Topping lift
« Last Post by Jane Reed on 10 May 2024, 09:37 »
Good morning
Id like to rig a topping lift on a carbon mast on my BRE . I’d prefer to use local technicians however they would need specific information/guidance . I’ve asked Swallow Yachts for help they have offered to do it but Im not prepared to tow from West Scotland. Your help would be very much appreciated . The next alternative will be to find a rigger with experience of working with carbon masts .
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