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91
Technical / Re: Glue/sealant question
« Last Post by Sea Simon on 07 Apr 2024, 21:48 »
Interesting...Plymouth Uni (my v v long ago Alma Mater, a humble Poly back then...).
I viewed these three then very much unloved boats at QAB marina,  Plymouth in 2017. All a bleddy disgrace, and I told the Uni bosun so. I offered to buy a melange of the best of the 3 (having picked thru the Sails, spars and trailers too) but my low offer was somewhat "ungraciously refused"...I  left all 3 behind and brought a BRe! Have mentioned these boats on here before!
Would never have happened in my day, etc, etc..... ;)

CT1. I've had good results bonding and sealing internally, but this formulation seems perhaps less tolerant of seawater and/or UV when used externally? The "beige" shade is usefully tonal with the off white yard finishes.
The yard Bostik stuff seems good?

Latest experience was a pal who used CT1 to fix his saildrive fairing diaphragm to the Hull (not a Swallow boat). Very  poor results, failed in weeks. I did mine with RHiB repair materials and no sign of movement, peeling or detachment of any sort at the end of season. Of course, any adhesive application to used items as a repair (even more so than production use, on new materials in more controlled conditions) can be very variable.

Others on here will be better placed than me to advise on your particular application, I suspect?

PS . I'm closer even than Plymouth  to the equator  8)
92
Technical / Re: Glue/sealant question
« Last Post by Charles Scott on 07 Apr 2024, 16:45 »
Sea Simon, I am interested in your remarks about CT1, as I have just bought some to fix new rubbing strakes on my Bayraider 20. May I ask in what way were your results mixed? Removing the remains of the old strakes has been ( is being ) quite a job, whatever they were stuck on with before ( black colour, presumably Sikaflex or the Bostik mentioned by you and Graham ) being the very devil to take off.  The remains of the old strakes ( partially rotted from years of neglect , some mine, but most by the previous owner, Plymouth university) having to be chiselled off and destroyed in the process. In my naivete, I had thought I would take out the screws, and then simply peel off the strakes . Ha Ha!  It proves the yard's black stuff is very effective anyway, but I hope I haven't done the wrong thing buying CT1 instead.  I also have to replace the old white sealant in the join between the cockpit floor and sides, as this has degraded after being exposed to UV light during its University years living on a  pontoon, in the Plymouth sun ( a lot closer to the equator than Co.Mayo where I keep my boat.)
93
For Sale and Wanted / Original Drascombe Drifter No. 31 for Sale
« Last Post by Llafurio on 07 Apr 2024, 05:06 »
Solid trailerable shallow draught coastal keelyacht, ready to sail. Overcomplete with Yamaha 6, GPS, tiller pilot, toilet, galley, good sails and spars, unbraked trailer, electrics, solar etc.. € 7.000.00
Sneem, Co. Kerry
(Photo shows my other Drifter, No. 27. Fitted with BayRaider rig.)
94
Technical / Re: Glue/sealant question
« Last Post by Graham W on 06 Apr 2024, 20:56 »
Thanks Simon.

Does anyone know if there is much to choose (apart from smaller sizes available) between the Bostik and the Sikaflex?  And can Bostik shelf life be extended, as it can with Sikaflex, by putting it in the deep freeze?

I could get much better access to the transducer installation if I was prepared to remove the centreboard and/or the centreboard case capping.  However both are big jobs, so some sort of temporary jig seems to be the easiest way of applying pressure to the installation while the sealant cures.

If you look at the first photo above, I think an inflatable wedge would be in mortal danger from all those bare screws!
95
BayRaider 17 "Eliza" For Sale - Built 2015 - Located Jupiter, Florida USA

Excellent Condition with Aluminum Trailer $15,000.00 US Dollars. Please contact Lee & Carol Gwatkin at carolgwatkin@icloud.com for photos and more information. Includes 5 hp 4-stroke Mercury Outboard, Garmin nav, wind speed/direction indicator, solar panel for charging battery.
96
Technical / Re: Glue/sealant question
« Last Post by Sea Simon on 06 Apr 2024, 18:14 »
"Glue"
Sikaflex 291 is excellent for this sort of thing, and widely available too.
You can sometimes  get it in less wasteful (and cheaper!) smaller tubes, but check expiry dates.
I've had mixed results  with CT1 construction adhesive  outdoors/underwater. But otherwise an excellent (relatively) economical alternative.

Clamping.
Try wedges etc..I'm  sure you've done it all before?
I have found these mini air bag/air wedges really useful for this sort of clamping job (in holes/crevices).
https://www.screwfix.com/p/winbag-inflatable-air-wedge-160mm-160mm-x-160mm/1363k
Mine were from Aldi, and about 1/3 the price!
97
Technical / Re: Glue/sealant question
« Last Post by Graham W on 06 Apr 2024, 17:02 »
Thanks Gareth.  I think epoxy is a bit too permanent so I’ll try the Bostik.

I’m thinking of temporarily attaching a jig to the underside of the piece of wood that will allow me to apply pressure by bracing it against the outside of the hull.  Once the adhesive has cured, I can unscrew the jig and hopefully everything will stay in place. 
98
Technical / Re: Glue/sealant question
« Last Post by garethrow on 06 Apr 2024, 16:54 »
Hmm, have you got any way of clamping / applying pressure to the block whilst it is glueing in place Graham? If so two choices spring to mind: a) epoxy it in place as a fairly permenant / bomb proof solution, or b) use the stuff that the yard use which is a black bostick marine consruction adhesive: https://www.sealantsandtoolsdirect.co.uk/bostik-simson-msr-marine-construction-adhesive-sealant-black

If you can't get a way of applying pressure during the bonding process - may have to resort to some screws as well?

Regards

Gareth Rowlands
GRP BR20 Halen Y Mor
99
Technical / Glue/sealant question
« Last Post by Graham W on 06 Apr 2024, 15:28 »
I'm in the process of replacing my depth transducer.  It used to be standard on BayRaiders to attach a transom-mounted type of transducer just ahead of the centreboard slot to a specially shaped block of wood that fixes inside the very front of the slot.  Photos of the sloping fixing position and of the block of wood with attached transducer below.  Note the screws into bare GRP!

For various reasons to do with lack of decent access to fixings on this particular transducer, the only way of installing it is first to attach it to the piece of wood and then to bond the wood to the GRP surface inside the centreboard slot.

The question is, what sort of bond/sealant/glue is it best to use to ensure a good strong bond between the piece of wood and the GRP, given that the two of them are going to be exposed to seawater?  It wasn't that difficult to unstick the wood from how it was originally installed by the yard.  Obviously I will need to clean up the two surfaces before applying anything.  Looking at the sealant remaining on the piece of wood, it seems to be a mixture of some cream-coloured stuff and some black sealant, which may or may not be Sikaflex.

All suggestions gratefully received.
100
She also has copper antifoul!
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