Recent Posts

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For Sale and Wanted / Baycruiser 23 for sale
« Last Post by Rosieferg on 16 May 2024, 17:52 »
Fantastic opportunity to buy a lovely example of this popular boat.  Built in 2021 (sail no 78) and very little used, she is in immaculate condition with a very high spec including performance rig and laminate sails, flexiteak on cockpit seats and floor,  9.9 Yamaha outboard with electric start, Garmin chartplotter, harken self tailing winches, spray hood, solar panels, cockpit cover and brand new custom built trailer. Hull is Signal Grey with black antifoul and teak trim. Reluctantly for sale due to change of circumstances.  £63,000
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General Discussion / Re: Baycruiser 23 Engine
« Last Post by Rosieferg on 16 May 2024, 17:35 »
Hi There
I went through the same thought process re outboard v inboard engine but was completely (and I think correctly) convinced by Matt of Swallow Yachts that the boat is much better suited to having an outboard. And in fact there are I think very few built with inboards 
Reluctantly I am having to sell my boat, and wonder whether you might be interested. She was built in 2021, very high spec and in pretty much immaculate condition.  She is pale grey, with teak trim, performance rig, Garmin chartplotter, harken winches, Yamaha 9.9 outboard with electric start , brand new (never been in the water) custom made trailer. Sail no is 78. She has been sailed very little and is currently stored undercover.  Let me know if you would like more details and pic.
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General Discussion / Baycruiser 23 Engine
« Last Post by trailing by on 16 May 2024, 14:22 »
Hello, I'm a bit of an oldie, but new on here and I'm considering a Baycruiser 23 and will keep an eye out for anything coming up second-hand. It'll be quite a change for us as we have been sailing larger, more offshore-oriented boats for some years.  However, we started on dinghies and then progressed to a Cornish Shrimper (inboard) and have also trailed and sailed a Red Fox 20 (outboard).

I only know a little about the BC23, but she looks as if she might well suit our move back to trailer sailing.  It appears that the boat was designed primarily with outboard propulsion in mind and I wonder how many have been built with inboards.  The pros and cons list for both engine types is endlessly debatable, but overall, I've come to prefer inboards.  I'd be interested in any comments from BC23 sailors, especially if they have any knowledge / experience of the inboard.
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Sailing and Events / Re: A Memory Of Mylor 2023 Raid
« Last Post by Philip L on 16 May 2024, 11:09 »
Wow Gareth - I'm impressed that you spotted this.  The fleet of Swallow Yachts is only visible for about 3 seconds!
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Sailing and Events / A Memory Of Mylor 2023 Raid
« Last Post by garethrow on 15 May 2024, 17:04 »
If anyone has been watching 'Saving Lives At Sea' on the BBC, last night's episode featured the last day of the Mylor 2023 Raid! OK, it wasn't one of us in trouble, rather the story followed the sticken cargo ship that was towed in to Falmouth on the last day - getting in our way somewhat as we made our way back to Mylor. The aerial footage is too indistinct to make out which boat is which, but I am pretty sure I know which is us - because I recall having to circle back whilst waiting for the tow to pass.

I am fervently hoping that this will be the closest I get to featring on the programme!

Gareth Rowlands
GRP BR20 Halen Y Mor
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Technical / Re: BC26 - fresh water in port (larboard) Locker
« Last Post by Nick Orchard on 15 May 2024, 11:49 »
Hi Andy
I’ve had several sources of fresh water leaking into the locker. The shower unit is certainly suspect no 1 - either it needs a new washer on the shower head connector, or  possibly just tightening, or else check the push-fit plumbing connections. I have had problems with elbows leaking both in the heads and near the pump. I think part of the problem is that on a boat we keep depressurising the system and to some extent it’s the water pressure that maintains the seals.
Next suspect is the socket for the tiller pilot in the seat/locker lid. This socket is subject to quite high forces and the lid isn’t very thick. I noticed mine was starting to move under load and leaked rainwater. I glued a wooden backing pad on the inside and reset the socket with epoxy and haven’t had any trouble since.
Another way I managed to get water in was via a towel that I hang off the rail under the locker lid. I realised one day that the towel was wet because I’d got one corner of it trapped under the lid and it had wicked water in from the channel at the back, surprising how much water was in the bottom of the locker as a result.
It might also be worth checking the drainage channels around the lid for hair-line cracks.
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Technical / Re: BC26 (and possibly other boats) ballast pump problem
« Last Post by AndyB on 15 May 2024, 06:26 »
Thanks for the advice Nick.

I have the same problem with the pump needing priming. I have only done this once but it is a shock the first time.
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Technical / BC26 - fresh water in port (larboard) Locker
« Last Post by AndyB on 15 May 2024, 06:20 »
I have water gathering in the port locker and wondered if anyone else had suffered from the same fate. According to my tongue it is fresh not salt.

I can't see anything obvious - my suspicions are with the whale shower - maybe it leaks down the side but really am not sure.  It and the bilge pump are the only holes.

It is not a lot - perhaps a litre over the past couple of months. It has been raining hard and consistently recently.

Next step I guess is to lay down some paper to see if they pick up a drip etc

Any thoughts/advice would be appreciated.


Andy B
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Imho...Given that this pumps duty is to empty a ballast tank (and so, it's planned to run it dry at some point?), I'm  not surprised that this type of flexible lobe pump is starting to struggle as it ages. Never mind the inverted fitment causing sealing issues too!

These pumps depend almost entirely on the flexibility of the vane materials to operate, although casings will wear if pumping gritty/sandy water. I was astounded how much sand came in with the water ballast on my BRe, particularly when I  inadvertently left the fill/drain plug out while moored over sand for a few tides. So much sand that I  needed to actively flush the tank with a hose, while the boat was on a concrete slipway. Not that the Bre had a pump to fret about, but sand is HEAVY!
All vanes also need to be intact. If a vane is shed, try to find it!
These pumps are known to have relatively low suction capabilities.

Try fitting a new impeller? Apparently there are two different materials used, nitrile rubber or polyurethane.

Copy parts are cheap enough (buy several, you'll need them if you plan to run it dry), they are imho acceptable for this non critical  duty (although I wouldn't fit some of these knock-offs to the similar pumps fitted for diesel engine critical cooling systems),   and they are easily fitted with simple tools.
An occasional dob of silicon grease (or Johnson pump lube - glycerine) thru that brass plug on the suction port might help lengthen service life?

Try and seal the suction line that is drawing air.

Perhaps fit a foot valve to the suction line, to try to keep fluid in the pump after it stops. The Whale bilge suction strainers can come with a foot (non return) valve incorporated.



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Well the pump is all back together again now, and reinstalled on the boat yesterday. Turning it the other way up was slightly more involved than it should be on other boats as I have my fridge compressor mounted on the bulkhead and it gets in the way of the inlet hose. Without the compressor in the way you should be able to just turn it 180 degrees upside down and screw it back in the same holes. I had to glue another pad on a bit higher up, and it's also angled to give a better run for the hoses - see photo. When you turn it the other way up you will need to change the direction of pumping. You can either just switch the 12v wires round so the motor runs the other way, or you can turn the pump head 180 degrees. Switching the wires might sound easier, particularly as you may need to add more wire with the motor being further away, but it could cause confusion in future with the black supply wire connected to the red motor wire. Turning the pump head is just a matter of removing two nuts, turning it round and putting it back on again, so pretty simple.
One thing that I've noticed over time is that the system leaks air, so I have to prime the pump using the hand pump first otherwise it fails to suck the water up high enough to get to the pump. I think some air is getting in via the ballast/bilge changeover valve as you can see bubbles in the pipe, and also air is being drawn backwards through the Whale hand pump, and this is in spite of me installing a non-return valve in the line. Once it's sucking water it's ok, but it still slowly sucks the water back from the hand pump until after about 5 minutes it's just sucking air again and needs another few pumps on the handle. It takes about 20-25 minutes to empty the tank, but I seem to remember when new it took 15-20. 
If you want any info about refurbishing the motor then let me know.

(For some reason the thumbnail photo is rotated 90 but it's the right way up when you click on it for full size?)
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