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81
Technical / Re: Glue/sealant question
« Last Post by Charles Scott on 13 Apr 2024, 10:57 »
Thank you for that tip Gareth.  I had thought along those lines, but decided instead to sharpen a wallpaper stripping tool and used that to chisel off the second strake, walloping it with a mallet.  This was much quicker  than using a regular chisel, and I was able to remove the strake complete, unlike on the other side where my chiselling completely destroyed it. ( I say complete but actually some of it fell apart , rot having got in to several places where it had been damaged by careless university people)
82
Technical / Re: Panel at front of cockpit
« Last Post by Graham W on 11 Apr 2024, 16:05 »
So your panel is permanently fixed at the front end?  I can see why you would need to release it and I thought that there was some way of doing this without removing the wooden blocks.  On my boat, the port side retaining block can be pivoted to one side, releasing that side of the panel and thus allowing its complete removal.  Perhaps this is a later modification.
83
Technical / Re: Panel at front of cockpit
« Last Post by richard_drolet on 11 Apr 2024, 13:52 »
Thanks for the info. I am refreshing the varnish on the woodwork and I want to remove the panel to have better access.
84
Technical / Re: Panel at front of cockpit
« Last Post by Graham W on 11 Apr 2024, 08:53 »
Richard,

Congratulations on your purchase.

The aft edge of the white GRP panel that you mention makes the seat for an optional second rowing position, as used in sail & oar raids - see the first photo, attached.  I think this was taken during the Loch Ness Challenge, which is supposed to be a sailing race except when there isn't any wind.  That's probably the year when we rowed most of the length of the loch and 2/3 of the way back again - about 30 miles.

When solo, I prefer rowing from the front rather than from the standard midships position further back.  The white panel also allows for extra and uninterrupted stowage space at bench height under the foredeck and protects the house battery, if fitted on the cockpit sole, from the rain and prying eyes.  With the addition of extra panels aft, as in the second photo, it makes the base of a large bed for dinghy cruising.

As you seem to have already discovered, a one-piece panel attached at the front is a bit of a faff, particularly if you want to access things stowed underneath.  I’ve made my panel more useful by replacing it with a plywood version with a hinged central portion (photo 3) that allows much easier access.  I keep a Fortress anchor under there, ready for speedy deployment. 

I’m fairly sure that the wooden blocks that you mention are glued to the GRP with tenacious Sikaflex or similar.  As the blocks are fairly small and out of the way, far under the front of the foredeck, why do you want to remove them?
85
Technical / Panel at front of cockpit
« Last Post by richard_drolet on 10 Apr 2024, 21:36 »
Hi,

I’m intrigued by the semi-mobile panel that covers the cockpit from the centerboard well forward on my recently purchased Bayraider 20. I’ve seen photos of other bayraiders where they have been removed. Does it serve a purpose other than protecting the gear your store underneath it ?

I’ve tried removing one of the wooden blocks that hold it in place. However, once the two screws are removed, it won’t budge. Is it glued or is there some other fastener that I can’t see ?

Thanks for your insights
86
Technical / Re: Outboard carry bag
« Last Post by Ape Ears on 10 Apr 2024, 14:22 »
Consider leaving in the outboard well , stowed transversely in the retracted position , secured with a ‘Motorloc’ Atlantic Slot Lock 170 , with suitable padding like Force4 flat fenders above and below , suitably lashed down.

There has been previous debate whether outboard needs to be removed, kept upright or can be tilted for towing. Yamaha 6HP can be upright, tilted on either side or face down, without risk of oil leak, according to manual.

 Kind regards, Andrew
87
For Sale and Wanted / Re: BRe HOMER coming to the market
« Last Post by Llafurio on 09 Apr 2024, 20:51 »
HOMER is a specially hardened BayRaider Expedition for harbour hopping on the open coast around the island of Ireland. On the other side, it is also a conventional cabin sailing dinghy which can be trailered easily to all european in- and offshore destinations, and can be rigged and launched from any slipway, in minutes.
She has been sailed in raids in Ireland, Scotland and the Netherlands.

The key HOMER modifications were inspired by original British rowing lifeboats and the subsequent  ocean rowing boats, with enough watertight buoyancy on the fore and aft superstructure to automatically destabilise the boat after a potential full inversion at sea. For this, the cabin got a watertight hatch, and a buoyancy dome was built over the stern, which now also houses the main electronics, GPS, Echo and fixed VHF, in easy reach of the helm. Two solar panels on either side of the dome provide ample battery charging. Btw, the buoyancy dome can be removed again.

As there is a risk for the BayRaiders’ and BayRaiders Expedition stability in tough conditions at sea through unvoluntary filling of the standard deep stowage lockers, I had the yard install false floors in the lockers at the level of the cockpit floor. Any water getting in the stowage lockers now drains out automatically into the self.draining cockpit, through new wide diameter one-way valves. The new tank cavity between false floor and main ballast tank can either be filled with sea- or fresh water for additional righting and supply, or can be left dry. There are shut off valves for self draining these tanks through the main ballast tank.
Then, the rudder fittings on the transom were reinforced, a stronger tiller was made, and the rudderhead was made to be serviceable at sea.
There are extra fittings on the cabin and the stern dome roof to lash the masts down firmly in preparation for a severe blow. There are extra handrails in the cockpit and on the buyoancy dome to give the crew better hold.
I made the compression post inside the cabin easily removable for more comfortable overnighting, and added storage bags in the cockpit and inside the cabin. There is a jumbo size waterproof bean bag inside the cabin for comfort and emergency buoyancy.
The centerboard got a proper downhaul. The main ballastwater tank drainholes were made bigger, and two manual bailing pumps were installed.
The structural works were done by a reputed yard in UK which specialises in building ocean rowing boats.
Comes with brandnew (unused) „USA“ carbon main mast and Bermudan mainsail.
Antifouling: International VC Offshore, red.
Engraved curved teak nameplate on transom.
Snap shackles where practical. Jib with stronger luff wire. Pulley system for jib halyard tensioning / main mast stepping. Mizzen: Stronger and stiffer mizzen mast. Reinforced no-twist mast socket. Allen hinge gooseneck for boom. Set of 10" oars. Tiller tamer. Automatic ballast tank airvent.  Additional and improved self bailers for sump / ballast tank.
Comes with low-hour Suzuki 2.5 outboard, and braked launching cradle road trailer in perfect condition.
Anchor, and fenders included. Ready to sail. € 22,500.00
(Photos show Homer with Gunter rig.)
88
Technical / Outboard carry bag
« Last Post by RogerLennard on 09 Apr 2024, 20:32 »
I've got a Yamaha 6hp outboard that I intend to put in the boot of my car when towing the BR20 around. Since outboards are somewhat unwieldy and prone to being scratched, I was hoping to get hold of a padded carrier for the thing. The best I've found on the internet seem to be very flimsy dustcovers. I quite fancy making my own 'bespoke' padded carrier. Does anyone have a pattern or suggestions for materials for construction please?
How do you transport your outboard, while keeping it safe?

Best regards

Roger
89
Technical / Re: Glue/sealant question
« Last Post by garethrow on 09 Apr 2024, 15:42 »
Charles
If you haven't finished removing your rubbing strakes / batteling with the Bostick glue, a good tip I picked up from the  yard is to use a sawing motion with long pieces of cheese wire to cut through the glue. This does work but you get through a lot of wire as it gets very hot - hot enough to alter the tempering of the wire which then tends to kink and snap. I did this to get my locker fender tie off rails off for varnishing.

Regards
Gareth Rowlands
GRP BR20 Halen Y Mor
90
For Sale and Wanted / Re: 'CRAIC' SeaRaider No1 for Sale.
« Last Post by Ape Ears on 09 Apr 2024, 11:41 »
Now Sold. My thanks to all who have shown interest, and specifically to Matt, Lara and Michelle from Swallow Yachts Brokerage. 
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