Swallow Yachts Association
Swallow Yachts Forum => Technical => Topic started by: Rob Johnstone on 08 Apr 2014, 21:15
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Please remember to check the operation of your trailer brakes (if fitted). I found today that those on Vagabonds' trailer have failed.
The brakes are applied when a length of screwed rod pulls the inner cores of two "bowden" cables. These inner cores are joined to the screwed rod by a plate and two swaged end stops.
BOTH OF THE SWAGED END STOPS ON THE CABLES HAVE FAILED.
As you can see from the attached photo each swage seems to have slid cleanly off the end of its' cable. There is no sign of the swaged end stops in the vicinity to I assume it must have happened during the last road tow last year. No wonder it was a bit hairy.
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Thanks for bringing this to our attention Rob. Although my trailer is unbraked it is a salutary lesson to check the trailer over at the start of the season.
On the subject of trailers, I've been giving a great deal of thought (amongst loads of other things!) re trailers for the BC23, I've heard some less than satisfactory anecdotes about some of them that have been supplied by SB.
As I say, a lot of what I have heard has been anecdotal and I would be very pleased to hear feedback on the Baycruiser trailers - which tend to be the braked ones - especially concerning launching and recovery.
Interestingly, there is a good YouTube video on the SB website of Matt recovering his first BC23 onto what appears to be a Bramber trailer where the vessel, with full tanks is winched very easily - albeit with a bit of grunt, onto the trailer and appears to line up and be recovered relatively easily.
As I understand it this is not always the case with some of the later trailers - which are not Brambers? Or is it a case of them not being set up properly for the boat they are carrying?
My own trailer with my current Bayraider20 is a Bramber and I have always been extremely pleased with it, the boat slips on and off the trailer in all sorts of environments like the proverbial well worn seaboot!
As such I am minded to source the trailer for my future BC23 myself - probably Bramber, though SBS, Indispension etc do similar, and to take the advice of the particular manufacturer in setting it up.
I'd be grateful for others thoughts, or experiences on this?
Andy
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Andy, you mention anecdotes about trailers.
This is slightly off-topic, for my trailer is unbraked. It's my early experience with a CLH trailer. My Bayraider was new and on a new trailer. After towing about a hundred miles, checking things, I noticed that bolts securing the 'rocking' systems on the support cradles were not secure. The self-locking nuts had gone and the bolts had partially withdrawn (sorry, the accompanying photo is rather blurred). I recall this had happened with three of the four supports. If the bolts had come right out, the results might have been catastrophic.
Matt organised for a CLH dealer to come and fix things.
Jonno
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Not off topic Jonno.. this is exactly the sort of thing that I have been getting feed back on.
I think that the trailer is a major part of the boats equipment and should be treated as such. We wouldn't go to sea without being fully confident in the boats seaworthiness nor should we be going on the road with a potentially dodgy trailer. Not to mention the seamless launching and recovery we expect from a modern well designed trailer.
We all take great care in choosing the right boat and equipment we want on her, but I tend to think that the trailer is an afterthought, and usually allow the builder/agent or whoever is supplying your boat to throw one in - trusting their judgement - I certainly did when I bought my BR and it fortunately turned out well. But now, with the benefit of hindsight I'll be looking into the trailer purchase with more care.
I'd be grateful for others thoughts on their trailers and any recommendations re make, set up etc? Especially, but not exclusively, the Baycruisers.
Thanks
Andy
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I've found the swaged ends for the brake cables - they weren't far away so probably failed under the load of the parking brake. The swages seem to have failed along a bend line made during the swaging process - see attached picture.
Rob J
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Regarding load / unloading BC23 on/from trailer.
I've managed it by myself a couple of times, although having helpers attached to stern ropes helps to keep the boat lined up with the trailer, particularly during cross winds. The angled rollers on the CLH trailer seem to manage to self align the boat, although it's taken me some time to adjust the various roller positions to my liking. Oddly enough, it's getting the boat into the water that seems to be most difficult - she seems to stick to the trailer. I noticed that Matt, at the LBS in January, looped the loading tape round one of the rear cross members of the trailer to use the winch to drag his demo boat off the trailer onto the stand.
Looking at my trailer the other day, I noticed that the angled rollers at the rear of the trailer had developed significant "flat spots" where they were taking the weight of the boat. This may be why it's so difficult to move her.I'll lift the back centre roller a bit once she's in the water.
Rob J
Apart from the afore mentioned brake problem, the built quality of my trailer seems good and the galvanising of the metal work has stood many salt water dunkings (so far).
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Thanks for the warning re brakes. Will check mine regularly.
Re loading/unloading BC23, yes this can be a challenge. My experience with the CLH trailer:
Unloading, especially if slipway is at a shallow angle then getting the boat moving the first 12-18" needs the effort of 2 strongish people lifting and pushing at the bow. I've considered using some sort of lever bar but not found something suitable. At a steeper slipway angle, the trailer can be backed in deeper and the boat almost floats off. I tried borrowing an extension bar once which also helped but was hassle.
Loading, the challenge is keeping it straight. I've tried all positions, trailer in water, out and various part-way positions and would say only 1 in 5 times i get it on 1st time satisfactorily to within 2 or 3 inches of centre. Frequently it loads 6 inches off centre and comes close to coming off the front or mid roller. On one occasion with a side wind it came off the front roller and the side of the keel hit the frame removing gel coat in several places, see 1st photo. Haven't got around to seeking advice on repairing this. I note other trailer designs (non Swallow boats) have vertical bars at the back to assist loading. Have considered constructing something but not done so as yet.
I sometimes think it would be worth spend time practising but the reality is there is usually a queue at the slipway and I would rather spend precious weekend hours sailing than loading/unloading.
As the boat stays in a boat park most of the time i don't worry about perfect centring (2nd photo shows typical worse position) If trailering by road and struggle to load centrally have considered resorting to car jack under keel to align it rather than repeated embarassment at the slipway!
On balance, I recommend unloading with trailer submerged as far as possible and loading it with the trailer wheels just in, water level below axle.
The only other problem I had was with the ratchet pin snapping off the winch, only 11 months from new (word doc). I contacted Matt who said he hadn't heard of this problem before and got a replacement ratchet kit sent direct from CLH which was easy to fit.
Simon
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In the 2nd picture the roller look to be very close together. I'm not at home so i can't check but im sure the rollers on my BR20 trailer are wider apart and the shaft of the roller is at about 45 degrees. With the hull supported where it curves gravity seems to keep the boat central. I'll check tonight and post a pic.
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One of the great things about forums is when you hear others having the same problems that you suffer and you realise that (hopefully) you're not the problem!
Simon talked about the problems aligning his boat on the trailer and I have the same issue with my BRe. It rarely goes on straight and I often end up pushing the boat off and having a second attempt at recovery. Even then the boat isn't normally as straight as I would like it. I can't work out the cause of the problem. The boat always starts going on fine and looks straight during the recovery, and then at some point it ends up wrong.
My CLH trailer is well made, appears to be of good quality and is surviving well. But I think CLH and/or SwallowBoats need to spend a bit more time developing/refining the setup for each boat.
When I took delivery of mine I found the stainless steel skids on the boat's hull hit the forward rollers and caused a terrible squealing noise during the last 6" or so of recovery (and I have heard the same noise on other's BR trailers). That was fixed by moving the rollers to the front side of the trailer bar rather than the back where they were mounted.
When recovering the boat the rear trailer bar pivots and that almost always ends up at 90 degrees to the trailer and the boat's bow hits it. Recovery is then impossible until a helper kicks the bar back down while I winch. Moving the rear rollers closer together would fix this but they are already as close as is sensible and I think such a change would make it harder to get the boat straight. Fixing this issue might be one of this year's jobs.
I also had problems with the boat rocking because there was too little weight on one or both of the front side rollers. That seems to be fixed after some adjustments.
The lighting board and number plate are too low so they either can't be seen from behind and/or hit the ground on bumps and inclines. I think that's been discussed elsewhere on the forum.
I also made some mud flaps for my trailer - simply by cutting some stiff rubber and bolting it through existing bolt holes on the mud guards - because the boat was frequently being blasted with mud and grit when towing (one of the downsides of living in the country and surrounded by dairy farms).
No big issues but I've had to spend more time under the trailer adjusting things than I would have liked and it irritates me that I can't get the boat straight, but I am a perfectionist so that sort of stuff really irks!
Finally, I find the boat is easy to launch once you get it moving. Obviously the more water the better but I've never had to get the hubs wet. For recovery I find too much water causes problems, esp with getting the boat aligned, and it is better to err on using the winch and rollers rather than relying on deeper water.
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As a Drascombe Coaster owner I have no experience of recovering Bayraiders.
I can always dream!!!
I have a similar problem with the Coaster in getting it off the trailer. The accepted Drascombe method is to use the winch strop to back winch the boat off the trailer.
Take the strop to the first keel roller of the trailer and then return to the winching eye on the bow of the boat.Taking the strop down one side of the boat and back on the other to try and equalise the pull and keep the boat straight when winching off. Using a suitable piece of padding to prevent the strop hook from damaging the grp/wood on the bow. Tension the strop with the winch and ensuring that strap remains around the rubber keel roller. The boat should move back on the trailer to a point where a hefty shoulder shove can push the boat off the trailer and allow gravity to take it's course.
As to the problem of the boat not recovering straight is not a problem that I have with the Drascombe as the hull has a slight vee and the rollers are positioned to keep the boat straight. The BR23 seems to have a flatter aft section to the hull and so there is less vee for the rollers to purchase on and keep straight.
I have no trouble recovering my Coaster on to it's trailer. If anybody is sufficiently fed up with their crooked recovery of their BR23's I would be more than willing to arrange a straight swop of boats.
Ian Cowie
Drascombe Coaster "Moksha"
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My Bramber trailer and Br20 make launch and recovery are easy, i put the swinging arm just level with the water, with the bow just resting on the "V" of the arm i attach the winch and she aligns every time first time. The only problem i had which needed adjustment which suggests a shortfall on setup was the bilge runners being allowed to ride up the front rollers, this resulted in the boat sticking on launch, resolved by adjusting the winch pylon position on the trailer and the height and clamping position of the front rollers.
As the BRE is the same hull as the BR20 the design of the trailer by manafacturer or roller setup must be under question ( i guess stating the obvious).
After reading the problems on this post i would certainly pay a lot of attention to this and have practical demonstration before another purchase , just feel lucky that my combination works.
Jonathon can you fix the post on electric trailer winch as my photo,s have broken it again.
Peter
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Fixed :).
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Thanks for the tips. Two noted to try out:
- from Ian L, rear roller positions
- from Ian C, back winching off the trailer (I only hope this works so I don't have to resort to the boat swap option)
The Rutland Rally is at risk of being a trailer masterclass!
Simon
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Simon
I would seriously consider the "boat swap " option and as i seconded it letting me have first option on buying her. Lets discuss this after you have quenched your thirst in the White Horse.
Peter
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Unfortunatly when I checked my trailer the rear most rollers are not as far apart as i suggested, The gap does look to be greater than on you picture but it is the other rollers that are running at an angle.
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Thanks all for the very useful comment and feedback on trailers, braked or otherwise.
I will now definitely be doing my own thing re sourcing a trailer for my shiny new BC23, and am actively researching manufacturers. One that has stuck out amidst the rest is this one:
http://www.degraafftrailers.co.uk/sb1500-boat-trailer.htm
Twin swinging arms, looks like plenty of support with 32 rollers and designed for launching/recovery in shallow water and slips.
I'd appreciate any comment/thoughts on this one, or similar. But I will be physically going round to see the manufacturers with a list of the issues bought up on our forum and confront them with it!
The Bramber/SBS/Indispension rollerglide models are all pretty similar and are still an option to consider if anyone has any of these makes?
I agree with Simon, the annual rising of the Swallow Boats clan at Rutland (despite the earthquakes!*) could turn into a trailer fest - with none of us getting off the slip as we each launch and recover to an admiring audience ....maybe a scoring system ala figure skating..? Maybe not!
Simon.
May I make so bold as to ask if I may have just a tiny little play on your BC23 at some time during the event? Under strict supervision of course. I would love to hear of any foibles/issues you have experienced in sailing her, or what you now would do better or differently, with the benefit of hind sight?
In return I have an open tube of Plastic Padding white gel coat repair gunk that we can use to fix the scratches in your gel coat that were dastardly injured by your recalcitrant trailer!
Thanks
Andy
* If you weren't aware a 3.2 magnitude earth quake hit Rutland early yesterday morning..!
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Just noticed that the trailer I quoted in my post above is for boats up to 21 foot, not 23.. damn!
It seems their next higher option takes me into the twin axle bracket and I really do not want to go there.. not at the light weight of the BC23
Maybe speak to them to see if the single axle version can be modified to fit a 23 footer..?
This trailer lark is something of a minefield!
Andy
Ps I just bought a cracking catapult. Karen thinks I am regressing ...
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It is possible to have your trailer tailor made by manufacturers. I bought my Drascombe Coaster trailer through Churchouse Boats for approx £2000. You do not have to buy an off the shelf one size fits all trailer.
Ian Cowie
"Moksha"
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Andy,
You are very welcome to have a sail on Anam Cara and thanks for the offer of the gel coat, that's great.
Simon
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Many thanks Simon, I look forward to that very much - the sailing that is, not the gel coat repair!
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Thanks Ian - I did know that Church House did build trailers (or have them built for them?), it is interesting I think that a boat builder takes a genuine interest in the trailers they provide for their boats.
They are very well spoken about - and not only by drascombe owners, I know that Cape Cutter 19 owners rate these trailers very highly.
I certainly will be contacting them to discuss my requirements.
I've just come across the new EU legislation regarding trailers. From the little I have gleaned it seems that MOT style annual testing may (will?) be coming into effect for boat trailers after Oct 2014, probably for trailers built/supplied after that date ?. (And not a bad thing in my opinion).
Something I will be looking at more closely as and when I get the time... or if anyone else wants to research this and let us know?! No?.. didn't think so!
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Interesting discussions. One of the major attractions of the BC20 to me was that it was light enough to not need a braked trailer. I had a braked one for my previous boat. a 16 ft Winkle Brig, which weighed considerably more than a 20 ft Baycruiser. The only problems I ever had with the boat were with the trailer brakes. They seized every year, regardless of what precautions I took. So brake-free was at the top of my list of essentials.
I also discovered the ideal way to recover a BC20 onto the trailer at the English RAID in 2012. Ask Andrew Wolstenholm to hold onto your boat whilst you back your car down the slip. He and Colin Henwood will then hook you on and crank your boat onto the trailer without you having to raise a finger! Mind you, I think there was a bit of industrial espionage involved. Andrew wanted to know just how easy it was to recover a Swallowboat. Kite needs a fairly heft, braked trailer...
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I am thinking of buying a BR20 or BRe or even a BC, but has anyone actually weighed their boat fully loaded on the trailer and can confirm they are within legal towing weight of unbraked trailer at 750kg.
Thank you.
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Matt weighed my BC20 with a load cell just before I towed it home. 451kg. He was gutted as it should have been 450! So provided the engine, trailer and my junk add up to less than 299kg, I should be within the 750 unbraked limit.
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Steve
Yes, I weighed my grp BR20 on its CLH trailer prior to towing to the Semaine du Golfe last year. Over 750kg. I moved stuff out of the boat and into the tow vehicle, getting the all up weight down to 740kg. Sensibly, I made a note of what remained in the boat.
I lost the note.
From memory, in the boat were all rigging and sails, fenders, lines, Suzuki 2hp outboard. Not trailed were the anchor, chain and warp, the trailer's spare wheel, the petrol can, the trailer wheel security clamp.
So yes, you can get within the limit. But you can't use the boat as a space for luggage.
Or shouldn't I have used a commercial weighbridge? Are they insufficiently accurate/reliable?
Jonno
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Thanks Julian, did the 451kg include all spars, sails, rudder, anchor, warps and oars?
I was speaking to CLH. They say their trailer weighs 220kg excluding spare wheel, which weighs in at 10kg, outboards normally 30kg. So that would only leave me 39kg for my junk?
In fact it is worse for me as my car's kerb weight is 1460kg givng a max unbraked trailer 730kg.
Looks like it is a bit close for my car?
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Steve
Yes, I weighed my grp BR20 on its CLH trailer prior to towing to the Semaine du Golfe last year. Over 750kg. I moved stuff out of the boat and into the tow vehicle, getting the all up weight down to 740kg. Sensibly, I made a note of what remained in the boat.
I lost the note.
From memory, in the boat were all rigging and sails, fenders, lines, Suzuki 2hp outboard. Not trailed were the anchor, chain and warp, the trailer's spare wheel, the petrol can, the trailer wheel security clamp."
Thanks Junno, that is really useful. I am happy with a weighbridge as that is what VOSA would use. I understand if you are overweight they impound the trailer and car on the spot!
I only have 730kg limit so it would be really close for me. Only option take out the outboard 13kg would just get me in.
From your figures it could be really close for a BRe?
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The weight question is an interesting topic. My 'experience' is all paper and chat at the moment as I have yet to take delivery of my BRe. Nevertheless, the story I am getting is that boat + sails + rigging + trailer comes very close to 750kg. Leaving no room for outboard and clobber. I have talked with Matt and have decided a braked trailer is the only way to go, which is not exactly what I wanted to do, but the numbers would seem to indicate an all-up trailer weight of greater than 750kg would be very easy to 'achieve' and I didn't want the palaver of removing the outboard and putting it in the back of the car every time. Nor the worry of am I over or am I OK?
I am still hanging-on to the hope that launch and retrieval will be straight forward and practical for those of us that aren't olympic weight lifters… You're beginning to worry me with this thread!
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John, no need to worry about physical strength when you have a BRe and a braked CLH trailer. At least, i have the same combination and getting the boat on the trailer is really easy. I just pull the boat to the first rollers, standing on the frame of the trailer. Keeping the line taught, i stroll leasurely over the frame to the winch. Tighten the rope with the winch and start winching. Make sure that the keel is on the middle rollers and keep on winching. Nice and easy. Only the tires get wet, not the wheel hubs. And your shoes stay dry too.
Drive home with the gratifying thought that the trailer will not overtake you when you have to brake suddenly.
As with the seizing of brakes, i only have the trailer since last year. No problems yet. We will see.
Peter
BRe 7
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Given that it has become apparent that a BRe and trailer can be close to the weight limit for unbraked trailers I weighed my last weekend.The boat, trailer and sailing rig was 740kg. That's on a weighbridge that measures in 20kg increments so the actual weight is somewhere between 730kg and 749kg. To know if I'm legal with my 13kg outboard I need a more accurate weighbridge, but even then I will be very close to the limit so a braked trailer would be more appropriate.
John - I've never had a problem with launch / recovery and it is nice and easy for a boat of this size.
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Thanks for the replies over launch and retrieval, I also feel more comfortable with the trailer decision. My home base is in Scotland (Moray Firth) and I am hoping to participate in 'raids' and travel with it across the country, so the trailing bit is very important to me.
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Steve
Yes, I weighed my grp BR20 on its CLH trailer prior to towing to the Semaine du Golfe last year. Over 750kg. I moved stuff out of the boat and into the tow vehicle, getting the all up weight down to 740kg. Sensibly, I made a note of what remained in the boat.
I lost the note.
From memory, in the boat were all rigging and sails, fenders, lines, Suzuki 2hp outboard. Not trailed were the anchor, chain and warp, the trailer's spare wheel, the petrol can, the trailer wheel security clamp.
So yes, you can get within the limit. But you can't use the boat as a space for luggage.
Or shouldn't I have used a commercial weighbridge? Are they insufficiently accurate/reliable?
Jonno
Jonno
Will get my BR20 GRP and trailer weighed this week following your posting, the Bramber trailers I’m assuming are lighter than CLH as the trailer plate says Max weight 750 kgs Max load 590 kgs so I’m assuming the trailer weighs 160 kgs. This should allow 160 kgs of kit and the boat of 430 kgs. Will report back when checked.
Peter Cockerton
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Sort of more or less on topic, one of my trailer bearings failed just as I left Inverness on my way back from Sail Caledonia yesterday. I stopped as quickly as I could but couldn't get the grease cap off to see what had happened and had to call out a recovery truck. When they got the damned thing off, the grease looked normal (ie no water ingress) but the metal bits inside the bearing case looked like small bits of twisted shrapnel. Despite stopping quite quickly, this had generated enough heat to weld the bearing casing to the stub, so although I had spare bearings, it couldn't be repaired at the roadside. The upshot is that I am home but my BR20 is still in Inverness and will be delivered on a truck tomorrow.
The recovery driver said that he had had an identical case last week with another dayboat. Of Turaco, he said that it was a "bonnie wee boat" but that in his opinion, the trailer wasn't big enough for the task. In other words, the bearings were being asked to do too much work. To be fair, I do about 5,000 miles with it a year and that bearing hadn't been changed for 18 months.
I won't be upgrading the trailer to a braked version with higher axle limits but will:
1. Carry spare suspension units as well as hubs and axles on long journeys, in case the welding phenomenon happens again
2. Change the bearings annually whether they need it or not
3. Check bearing temperatures even more assiduously that normal (there was no sign of any increase in temperature up to the time of failure)
4. Continue to keep the bearings out of water as much as possible
5. Only keep cushions and the like in the boat lockers when trailing long distances
5. Renew my pan-European trailer breakdown and recovery policy with Breakdown Direct when it expires later this month. They have done an excellent job so far and all for an annual fee of £86.
Another SailCal participant had a similar problem yesterday, except that he had also welded fast the castle nut, which I suspect would take some doing!
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I won't be upgrading the trailer to a braked version with higher axle limits but will:
1. Carry spare suspension units as well as hubs and axles on long journeys, in case the welding phenomenon happens again
The first photo shows why this may not be very convenient if you have a CLH trailer - the suspension unit is a huge and heavy full beam axle. A spare would cost about £160 delivered but luckily mine was repairable.
If you ever find yourself in the same situation as I did, best practice for removing the seized bearing casing from the axle is to use an angle grinder/cut off disk to cut into the casing as close as you can to the axle. Then put a chisel into the cut and whack it with a hammer and it should split open. See second photo.
Thanks to both CLH Trailers for their advice and to Motiv Trailers in Craven Arms for getting me back on the road.
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Thanks for sharing this Graham.
The trailer supporting my previous boat didn't have sealed bearings so it was a winter ritual to strip, clean and grease the bearings, replacing if necessary. It was quite satisfying because doing this annually meant it became a straightforward and quick job and I knew the bearings were in good order for the season.
It has always bothered me that the sealed bearings on the BRe's trailer allegedly don't need maintenance. The words "too good to be true" (at least on a boat trailer and even when you don't dip the hubs) spring to mind. I think Graham's just proved that I should have followed my gut feeling, so from this winter I will go back to my old maintenance routine.
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Jonathan,
CLH told me that the newer version of their giant axle now sports sealed bearings, which is presumably what you have for your boat. Mine are not sealed but the dust cap seemed to have other ideas.
What do you dunk your bearings in to clean them off?
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Hi Graham,
When I had Mini, all those years ago, I used paraffin or petrol to wash various bearings in. If using petrol, just make sure you don't smoke whilst doing so!
Your warning is timely. Vagabonds' trailer allegedly has sealed bearings and has been dunked in salt water a few times, so far without trouble, although I do wonder what it has done to the brake mechanism. I'll have a look at it all before loading the trailer.
Rob J
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It turns out that Vagabonds' trailer is fitted with ordinary,rather than sealed bearings.
I spoke with CLH, who advised me to look at the label on the cross beam / axle to which the stub axles are fitted - I discovered that this an assembly that CLH buy in to fit to their trailers.
The one on Vagabonds' trailer is made by Knott, Avonbridge and has a serial number (and a phone number). When I called Knott, they were able to tell me the type of bearing fitted and quoted me the price of a repair kit.
Incidentally, CLH supplied me with a new set of cable for the brakes f.o.c and fitting them was reasonably easy - it could all be done through the backplate of the stub axle (although it helped to have the trailer empty).
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I know that we complain about our trailers (well I do anyway) but it could be a lot worse - http://www.drascombe-association.org.uk/vbforum/showthread.php?4239-Glad-I-didn-t-buy-a-Shrimper-to-Trailer-Sail!
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As we all know, trailer sailors need to be easy to launch and recover otherwise it's a real disincentive to go sailing. I've seen Shrimpers being lugged around on their hefty double axle trailers and with a weight of around 1065kg, i.e. approx. twice that of a BC20 or BRe, it's no surprise that most Shrimpers seem to be kept on moorings. Unrelated to trailers but still noteworthy, while at Mylor last year a Shrimper was being rigged while I rigged my BRe. I started after the Shrimper owner, got Mallory launched and he missed the tide.
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A warning note about braked trailers.
I discovered today that on one wheel the brake shoe material had become detached from the brakes shoes. I only discovered this by looking through the inspection window on the inside of the brake bake plate and rotating the wheel. The photo attached of the view through the back plate window shows the rust brown edge of the brake drum at the top right of the hole, then the blackish grey brake material and then the silver of the brake shoe. When I first looked through the window (using a £10 "endoscope" gadget attached to my phone) it all looked OK until I turned the wheel - the brake material then moved with the drum!
When I removed the brake drum (Ugh, brakes dust and grease everywhere) it was apparent that the brake material had separated from the shoes (see photo). A brake shoe kit was £64 plus VAT (both wheels).
All being well it will work and get us to Mylor!