Swallow Yachts Association

Out of curiosity, I've compared my first (2014) edition of Roger Barnes's 'Dinghy Cruising Companion' with the second edition, revised in 2021 and published in 2022.  I borrowed the latter from the excellent DCA members' library, which operates by post, free of charge.

The newer edition's format is slightly larger, making it easier to read but by far the greatest part of the content is entirely unchanged.  There are a few small updates to cover 4-stroke outboards (but no mention of ethanol in petrol) and electric motors; navigation by electronic tablet or smartphone; the section on dinghy tents has been expanded; there are excellent additional illustrations of the domestic layout of Barnes's 'Avel Dro'; and the appendices (boat data and recommended equipment) have been overhauled. 

He appears to have taken a shine to the Deben Lugger, which is featured for the first time but he hasn't updated his one-pager on the BR20 or its close relatives.  And he's added some extra sailing yarns about successes and failures on cruises in the West Country, which have also featured in his YouTube series.

My overall conclusion is that it isn't worth buying the second edition if you already have the first as the changes are too few to warrant shelling out around £15.  However, if you don't already have it and are interested in spending the odd night aboard, it's worth getting.

Lockdown is for sale. Here is Your opportunity to acquire this  unique "Gentlemans potterer". 15 ft Plywood  lug sail dinghy designed by Matt, Hyde loose footed sail with one set of reef points.  Lifting Centre board and water ballast under the cockpit floor.  Carbon Fibre mast and yard. Wooden Boot . Lifting 1Kw E Propulsion pod with remote  control,  battery and charger. Sealed buoyancy tanks fore , aft and amidships (port and starboard), each  with and inspection point.  One dry locker on each side, one  wet locker forward of the mast. Approx weight (dry) <150kg . CLS unbraked trailer with hand winch and spare wheel.  Built by current owner during lockdown  using 6mm marine ply parts cut by NC  milling machine straight from the designers CAD. Professionally painted by Swallow. Currently ashore under tarpaulin at Northey Marina, Hayling Island.   M3/M25  junction forces sale. Price on application to me at rob.johnstone@btinternet.com. Photo's of the build can be seen on this link https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/ydq0fa2chsnekxvi8re3k/AP6hsS1ZcaMJjtxmkZrHJIs?rlkey=laqqztkq8sq18wymoxy2f7wds&st=t31ks2zt&dl=0

Hi Robin

I would be delighted to relieve you of the BRe mainsail if you could send it to me? If so, let's make contact via DM.

Thanks

Willie

Hi all
I am trying to downsize my sailing inventory. I have a Hyde main for a BRe. I think it has had approx 5 seasons of use, only a few weeks a year, and has been stored indoors for the past 5 years after I bought new sails. Would make a useful spare. Going free if you collect from Shrewsbury area, or a charge for postage.

Robin

Hi Bob,

Happy Holidays!

I am interested in purchasing your 2012 BRE, Escape if you have some flexibility on the asking price.

I need to check shipping cost first. Don't worry, I do not expect you subsidize my shipping cost. Please contact me at signcondoowners@gmail.com, any reply would be appreciated.


PS. I contacted Swallow Yachts and made inquires but it did not go very far. For pre-owned or brokage boats, I need to contact owner directly for pick up arrangement, prepare the boat for shipment, as well as complete paper work. I think, this is exactly why seller hire the broker for and pay commission for, not just put the pictures on the website.

Bottom line, I do not want to buy a brand new boat.

It is an eye opening for me to find most of BRE sellers posted on this board.

   

Still for sale.

Quote from: MarkF on 24 Dec 2024, 09:44In the meantime, it seems with a suitable mux Navionics can display depth info next to the chart, which is really handy.

If you don't need a bi-directional multiplexer (Navionics doesn't use both directions), I can recommend one of these, made in Australia https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304107645287.  There's also a single port version for £10 less.  Both versions are tiny.

Quote from: MarkF on 24 Dec 2024, 09:44Graham, which case did you opt for?  There's lots of choice but I'm not convinced they are all as sturdy/water proof as they claim to be.

This one - it gets good reviews in the US, where it has mostly been sold up to now https://www.amazon.co.uk/Generation-Protector-Waterproof-Shoulder-Full-Body/dp/B0D72HVN2M/ref=sr_1_9.

Quote from: MarkF on 24 Dec 2024, 09:44If you mount your ipad on swivelling stand on the centre-board casing, you could add a counter-weight sticking out the back so that it was self-tacking

Don't tempt me!  Alternatively, I could mount it on a motorised model railway turntable.

Thank you all for the hugely informative replies, as always.  It's very helpful to know that little computing power is needed to support Navionics.

Andy, my query about the XDR setting on Apple devices was because I don't know how it is controlled by the app/OS.  I assumed it was based on content - if you are viewing something with a high dynamic range then it'll be enabled. I can't find out if Navionics will do this, or if it is activated by feedback from the light-level sensor.
I read your very interesting explanation of using a Kindle to view your speed/depth, etc. My 'vision' for the boat is to also create something like this, when time allows.  In the mean time, it seems with a suitable mux Navionics can display depth info next to the chart, which is really handy.

Currently having a boat with a bulkhead to attach things to is just an aspiration, so it sounds like a hard case is the way to go.  The Raymarine plotters look the business if you have somewhere to put them - I'd not realized they could support non-proprietary mapping.
Graham, which case did you opt for?  There's lots of choice but I'm not convinced they are all as sturdy/water proof as they claim to be.

If you mount your ipad on swivelling stand on the centre-board casing, you could add a counter-weight sticking out the back so that it was self-tacking

The plastic one will be a heck of a lot easier to work on ... and work is required!
Also probably a lot cheaper.
No point in making it harder or more expensive than it needs to be IMO.

Is there any preference for aluminium or plastic Tohatsu props?


Ray S