Rias Bajas

[Robin]

I have recently returned from a month sailing in the Rias Bajas, Galicia, North West Spain. For those who have not visited this area I cannot recommend it enough as a base for small yacht sailing. Think Cornwall with more sun, somewhat less rain and considerably fewer people trying to get to the water!
The forum posts are too short to allow a lengthy narrative but for those who might be interested for the future...
The Rias are a number of 'estuaries' but picture something more like a Fjord, 40-50M deep at entrance. These are distributed to the North of Fisterre (rather exposed and damp but beautiful) and to the South (much better weather and more protected from Atlantic swell but busier).
Ferry to Santander and a pretty easy 6hr drive with the boat to the area.
There are harbours and fishing villages dotted along the Rias with a good choice of marinas to choose from as a base. Pontoon moorings in most are a fraction of cost compared to popular UK south coast equivalent. Facilities generally good. I had e few predictable technical issues and the boatyard was extremely helpful.
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The sailing is wonderful for a 20' lightweight boat. There are numerous places to visit and the conditions within the Ria, compared to my usual North Wales coastline, are fairly benign. I enjoyed everything from two reefs to no ballast plus spinnaker, all on a fairly flat sea. I stayed within the Rias having been slightly put off by the Imray Pilot books descriptions of mountainous swell outside. The outboard motor seems rather small when moving along a lee shore.

Add to this beautiful scenery, wonderful seafood, wine and friendly people.

I decided at the end to leave the boat there (very competitive price for winter keep) and explore afresh next year.

Robin
BRe Cerys

[BobT]

Robin,

Sounds great perhaps you give a bit more detail and put an article in the library?

Bob

[Robin]

That is a good idea - I haven't worked out how to do that yet but I will compose something more substantial as we while away the grey winter weeks.
Robin

[MarkDarley]

Robin, 
I am planning on a trip to the Spanish Rias the summer of 2020.  Did you ever write that article?  Can I communicate with you to take advantage of your experience in this waters?
Regards
Mark
Bayraider 20 (wooden) "Pippin"

[MarkDarley]

Anyone else have experience cruising the Western Spanish Rias?

My brother Richard took his 38ft sloop there in 2017 and said it was one of the best and most relaxed cruising grounds he has been to.  I wonder how it is for a much smaller day boat (20 Bayraider)?

Are there also interesting rivers that can be explored and which remain navigable at low tide?

For me a ferry from Plymouth to Santander gets me much of the way there, with a drive which I have done without a boat along the northern coast and as far south as one chooses to go according to which Ria one explores.

Info and stories please!

Mark
"Pippin"

[charliea]

Hi Mark

My family and I sailed there last summer and thoroughly enjoyed it.

I made a few notes on the trip in the thread below:

https://www.swallowyachtsassociation.org/smf/index.php?topic=1554

Pontevedra is on a river but I don't think it's navigable much beyond the town, I have a feeling there was a low bridge just upstream of the marina. I don't remember any other rivers that caught our eye.

Drop me a message if you'd like to borrow the guides and the chart we got for the trip.

Charlie

[Llafurio]

Take a look at the Rio Minho too. Best with Google Earth satellite view. We were considering having a Raid there following the successful first Raid on the Douro. There's a (club) slipway at Tui.

[MarkDarley]

Charliea, 
Thanks for your offer.  I read your other post and would be grateful for the loan of charts, guides etc.  (My elder brother, Richard, may also have some as he was down there 3 years ago.)
However I won't be back in the UK until some time shortly after April Fools Day! My email is markdarley@mac.com if you want to be in direct contact.
Mark
"Pippin"

[Sea Simon]

Re Mark's post below.

I have never sailed my own small boat in "Green Spain", but have spent many weeks in the area for "business purposes", over a period of maybe 5 years. including two 6 week summers with the family in tow; rented wayfarer type thing a couple of times.
One small problem is the use of a multitude of languages here (Spanish/Galleago/Basque) can be confusing in place names; OK once you are aware. There also seems to be some sort of Asturias/n? dialect?

Galicia; What a fantastic place! can't recommend highly enough!
If you enjoy Falmouth, this is a bigger & better version -  As has been said before - think of South coast Cornwall but with bigger Rias (Rias Baxias are the ones further South, onto the Atlantic proper) better weather, food and wine; beer not so good tho ;-).
Lovely friendly folk - even more so if you are one of their Celtic brethren (as a Cornishman it was noticeable - that currency is also valid with many of the Basques, I found out!).
Not as busy as we have had to become used to in the UK.
Roads excellent. Port facilities generally excellent compared to ours.

Rias Altas, the ones along the N coast opening out onto Biscay , are also beautiful and of interest, as is much of the N coast in Asturias, Gijon ( industrial), and over as far as San Sebastian, Pasajes (Pasaia) etc.
However, can be dodgy up there on N coast - with dangerous access for small boats in poor weather; think more N coast of Cornwall - StIves/Hayle, Newquay, Padstow style). Beware.

You will drive past all this en-route to Rias Baxias from Santander/Bilbao.
Take the chance to go to Santiago de Compostella - but park well away from the city; no chance in city if towing. I was paying more to park my car than to rent it x 2.

Anywhere close to Cabo Finisterre has been brutal when ever I've been any where near, even on a "calm" day; not for me in a Swallow!

Old Pontevedra is a hidden gem. Don't be put off by the stink of the paper works just down the river.
We have been back to the Pontev area on holiday since my period working there - it was that good.
there were cheap flights (EasyJ?) from Stanstead to Santiago.

We plan to take the boat once time allows - retirement?

[Sea Simon]

Robin,

 if you are still on here?

noted your original post was 2017!
How did 2018 go?
How was the over winter storage idea?
This really appeals to me, given the pricey ferry with trailer; then would do two consecutive years

[Sea Simon]

Take a look at the Rio Minho too. Best with Google Earth satellite view. We were considering having a Raid there following the successful first Raid on the Douro. There's a (club) slipway at Tui.

This thread has really got me reminiscing...Some very happy memories from Galicia/ N Portugal....
We also did Vigo/Tui area, and as I recall one year went "home" (Santander ferry) via Leon & Valladolid; all worth seeing. Perhaps not when towing a boat tho? 

Moledo beach just over the border from Tui, on the Portugal side of the mouth of the Minho was one of the windiest places I've ever been. We practically had to tie the children down to stop them blowing away.
Big breaking seas, and a spectacular bar at the mouth of the river I seem to recall?
That was in August! Perhaps we were just unlucky?
Another small detail to remember when driving about that area, is that Portugal is in a different time zone to Spain (Portugal is on UK time); much confusion re hotel mealtimes etc 
We're clearly not "natural Europeans" and the lack of any real border, or "sense of occasion" when changing countries/time zones was quite odd.
Sorry if rambling...time on my hands!
Hopefully will be useful/interesting to someone?

[MarkDarley]

Update:

After a bit of research on nice old villages/ small towns we have decided to base ourselves in Cambados on the Ria Arousa, a couple of weeks before the Albarino wine festival. Apart from the wine festival it seems like a smaller less touristy spot.
 
There is no commercial marina but, after a communication with a local AirBnB owner who is a small boat sailor, I am hoping to work something out with the local captain of the port to allow us to either dry out on the town beach on a temporary trot, or tie up to the harbour wall with a stern anchor.  The plan is to day sail on the Ria, returning to the comforts of a house ashore and the local restaurants in the evening.

Failing working out something with the local port captain in Cambados, it looks like there is a commercial marina in Vilanova de Arousa, 15 minute drive to the north. Of course launching daily is always an option if we cannot find a spot afloat.

Anyone who has sailed in these waters.....please keep sending words of advice or warning!

Thanks
Mark

[MarkDarley]

2020 saw us cancel our trip to the Rias Bajas but we have rescheduled to leave on the Plymouth-Santander ferry July 12th for 3 weeks based in Cambados.

Any and all advice gratefully received!

Mark
"Pippin" wood Swallow Bayraider 20

[Sea Simon]

MD. Very jealous! Looking forward to hearing all about your adventures in Galicia.

Q. How much was the ferry please?

[MarkDarley]

Simon,
The ferry cost is approx £1600 return with private cabin both ways from Plymouth to Santander on Brittany Ferries.  Portsmouth route also, and you can also come and go from Bilboa.
Charts just arrived.  Lots of protected shallow water but also lots of marine farms.  We look forward to eating pots of mussels with Albarino wine!
Mark