Do you lift the rudder blade when manoeuvring under outboard motor?

Started by graham2burton65@gmail.com, 25 Feb 2021, 23:19

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graham2burton65@gmail.com


Thought for the day...

Many moons ago, as a chief instructor of a sailing school I used to teach RYA level one, two and three power boat courses and I had to ensure all my junior instructors were safe to buzz around in the centre power boats.

On my own wayfarer....some years ago, I thought nothing of raising the rudder blade and using the vectored thrust of the outboard to control the boat approaching a pontoon.  Come in with some modest speed at a diagonal, ease it into reverse and swing the steering over and play the power until it stops alongside.  Super manoeuvrable and easy.

I have seen many small yacht owners get into difficulty trying to adjust the outboard tiller/power and gearchange whilst using the main yacht tiller.  Of course this is needed if the rudder will not lift clear of the water but ours do...  Also many people insist on trying to force boats to moor head to wind when there could be easy alternatives, to stop that bow blowing off sideways.

I raise this question because I was in conversation with an excited/thoughtful new owner and I was suggesting some of the many benefits of my BC20 and his BC23 .   

For me one of the big benefit of outboard is the ability to reverse under full control and back into tight spots with the hull following the outboard, especially if the centreboard needs to be up or mostly up.  Indeed, almost fool proof if stern to modest wind and tide.
Your very own vectored thrust multi direction stern thruster!

What do you do?

Cheers
Graham B


MarkDarley

I have to say that I always use the rudder to steer when using the outboard.

I am now using an Epropulsion.  Reverse is very easy. No gears to shift just a grip. I like it a lot but I have yet to sell the 9HP petrol power in case I get into some cruising with a need for a more seriously powerful engine.
Mark Darley,
Baycruiser 23, "Foxwhelp" in UK
GRP Swallow Bayraider 20 "Kelpie" in Northern California.

tcave

When motoring my BRe I always raise the rudder and steer on the outboard. It's so much more manoeuvrable. I always sit to port (cos that's where the handle is) and always approach a jetty port side too (as I can't see the starboard side). Only once have I tried to steer on the rudder: first outing five years ago. I lost control, ran aground and had to get out and push. Much to the amusement of drinkers in the pub on the quay.

Graham W

Like Mark, I nearly always use the rudder, as my electric outboard is semi-fixed in the straight ahead position.  I nearly always sit on the port side but approach on the starboard side, if I have the option.  I wonder if it's something to do with being right-handed?

Conditions permitting, I usually approach a dock or pontoon as slowly as is compatible with still getting a response from the rudder, which is very slowly indeed.  And I use lots of fenders in case it all goes pear-shaped.
Gunter-rigged GRP BR20 No.59 'Turaco III'

Matthew P

I found the important thing using either the rudder to steer or the motor alone, is to lower the centre board about a third or more to stop the boat skidding about sideways, especially in a cross wind.

If the motor is reliable I think steering under motor alone is simpler and raising the rudder before getting into shallow water avoids dramas.  On a BR20 it's handy to have a paddle or oars ready in case the motor does conk out - but the BR23 maybe too big for paddles and oars.

Matthew
Gladys BR20
"Hilda", CLC Northeast[er], home build, epoxy ply, balanced lug
Previously "Tarika", BR17, yard built, epoxy-ply, gunter rigged
and "Gladys" BR20, GRP, gunter

boomerangben

It depends. If manoeuvring into a marina berth forwards probably keep the rudder down. If going in astern, lift the rudder. If it's windy, I generally manoeuvre astern because it's easier to manage weather cocking and would have the rudder up.

Sea Simon

As per some others, above. A combination of both blade up and down...

"On passage" or simple approach to easy-access berths, then use the full rudder (subject to water dpth/obstacles, of course!) with about 1/3 or less c board down. Reasonable manoeuvrability, and reasonable directional stability provided by the keel-like board. Outboard left fixed straight ahead, and ahead/astern propulsion as needed.

In "close quarters", particularly in high winds, I use the outboard as a directional thruster (easier to think of it as a "puller"really?) With the rudder raised, and maybe just a little board down (appropriate for water depth!).
However, when down the BRe rudder is effective using the outboard going astern, as a puller, and I sometimes leave it down (caution, see below).
Rudder up, you can use the outboard in reverse, rotating it as required,  to pull you stern first into very tight spaces, the bow weathercocking away from the wind. Weathercock effect is very pronounced on the BRe (cabin, and maybe sprayhood too).
The braking affect of heading up, being pulled into the wind adds an extra degree of control.

As mentioned above, the stern thruster technique is taught on power boat courses. Some can be similarly skitty in high winds, and with this technique, the stern remains well planted due to the prop/leg (it's even better on twin engined boats).

CAUTION. Be very sure that the water is deep enough, and free of obstacles, as pulling the boat astern in this way means that the normal "kick up" protection for motor, board and rudder will not work should you contact bottom! Things can get very expensive, very quickly. Hence my default method is to berth with rudder, moving ahead where possible.
BRe # 52 - "Two Sisters"  2016. Plank sprit, conventional jib. Asym spinn. Coppercoat. Honda 5. SOLD Nov 2022....
...From Oct 22.
BC 26 #1001. "Two Sisters 2", 2013. Alloy spars, Bermudan Sloop; fixed twin spade rudders, Beta diesel saildrive. Lift keel with lead bulb. Coppercoat. Cornwall UK.