One bilge pump solution for the BR20

[globetrot]

Due to the poor performance of the 2 Anderson bailers in the sump and a lower than necessary fuel line hole into my port locker - both of which lead to unsafe conditions and a lack of confidence in the boat - I decided to make some modifications.

The first problem to tackle was getting water out of the cockpit faster without resorting to a hand bailer or the hand pump.

I can appreciate the desire to keep things simple and electric-free. However, my decision to upgrade was based on a few things:

-This is a 6m boat, not a dinghy. I prefer to reserve bailer buckets for the latter.
-There are three sails to monitor and countless other things to be aware of, and in rough conditions, I do not want to add bailing water either by hand or pump to the responsibilities.
-The hand pump is only easily accessible on a starboard tack.
-Even the hand pump takes forever to drain the ballast tank.
-Did I mention that the Anderson Bailers are awful? (I know they work adequately in other boats)

My goal was to add a bilge pump and battery that could keep the cockpit dry, pump out most (if not all) of the ballast, situate the battery in a place that did not reduce space for "dry storage" in the lockers, and run the electric in a way that did not leave cables exposed or in the way.

I used used a Rule LoPro 900gph pump for the sump. It is compact and drains water downt to 3cm. The electric I ran through the starboard drain hole that leads to the starboard side-deck. After confirming with Swallow that this tank is not used by the ACB system and that this drain is only a method for draining a tank that has no real way to fill with water, it seemed like the perfect way to run the electric wire without having to drill a hole or run cable though the cockpit so that it is exposed.

I used two magnets to run the cable through the side deck all the way to the forward water proof hatch. A 90 degree waterproof cable entry gland allows the cable to exit the side-deck and continue forward to the battery.

I housed a 50Ah AGM battery in a battery box as far forward on the cockpit floor as I can.

The final steps to my project include:
-Securing the battery box with through-hull fittings (into the ballast tank)
-Adding a drain cover to the sump to hide the bilge pump
-Add a thin, but rigid base (maybe HDPE plastic) to the bilge pump to help keep it flat on the sump floor


THE RESULT:
This past weekend I sailed in Force 5 winds on all points of sail. I had a mix of 3-4 crew, depending on the day. 1 reef seemed to be sufficient for relatively upright sailing and I had my ballast 3/4 full. Wave height ranged between .5-2m. We occassionally took on quite a bit of water over the bow and am delighted at how the bilge system performed. The cockpit floor never had more than a little bit of water at a time. Considering the bilge pump is in the middle of teh sump, one concern I had was that it would not be able to pump out water that accumilates either on the port or starboard side if on a hard tack. My concern, however, was not warranted. I could always back-off the tack a few degrees to flatten out the deck and the pump would make quick work of the water.

[Nicky R]

I’m glad your pump solution worked well.

Can I just clarify what you mean by ballast 3/4 full? The boat is only stable if the tank is full or empty. If it is somewhere in between the water can slop around, which could make the boat very unstable.

[globetrot]

I’m glad your pump solution worked well.

Can I just clarify what you mean by ballast 3/4 full? The boat is only stable if the tank is full or empty. If it is somewhere in between the water can slop around, which could make the boat very unstable.

Hey Nicky,

Thank you for contributing! This is my first season sailing with the boat so I am experimenting with configurations. This past weekend, there were three reasons I sailed with the ballast half full.

-I started the day with a full ballast and realized that it wasn't necessary in combination with 4 crew and a reef in the main.
-While underway, I tried to empty the ballast but found that only about 1/2 (previously I said 3/4 but in retrospect it was probably closer to 1/2) drained into the sump. The rest remained in the ballast and I had to pump out with a hand pump once back at the dock
-For most of the day I was sailing on the same tack and point of sail. Stability was not a problem. But I understand what you're saying and you make a good point.

[Nicky R]

We found that we could only pump out under way with an electric pump, but ours went directly into the ballast tank and did get all the water out. Before we had our electric pump we just put up with being too heavy if we’d put in ballast and then found we didn’t need it. At the raid this year, Matt suggested that you could heave too to keep the boat flat whilst getting the ballast out.

The decision about when to add ballast first and when to reef first is worth considering too. When we were in a chop, we used to put ballast in first to help us punch through the waves. In flat water we'd put the reef in first. We were nervous about going deep downwind with full sail and ballast in in a lot of wind (force 5 plus) as it puts a lot of strain on the rig - everything feels very loaded up if you do that.

[Roger A]

Hello Globetrot and anyone else who has fitted an electric pump in the sump of a BR20 or BRe.

I am planning to install a Rule Lopro pump in the sump of my BRe so please can I ask some follow up questions on your very helpful posts..

1. How did you fix the pump to the floor of the pump? Did you use screws, thru hull bolts, threaded inserts or some other solution?

2. You mention possibly fitting a rigid base under the pump, did you do this and if so what did you use?

3. Have you fitted a cover over the sump area, if yes please could you provide details/pics?

Also any comments on other things I should consider.

Many thanks
Roger

[RogerLennard]

I tend to empty the water ballast at the end of a sail and have an electric bilge pump with a long hose. I connect the pump to a battery in the side locker and drop the pump into the ballast tank. I have also fitted a three-way tap to the hand pump that Swallow Yachts fit as standard to the engine thwart. The extra inlet has a long hose that will fit into the ballast tank. This seemed prudent, given the possibility that a battery can fail.

[Graham W]

I also drop a 12V electric pump into the inspection hatch of the ballast tank with a long hose over the side.

[Nicky R]

We also just dropped our pump in through the inspection hatch when needed on the BRE. On our 23 it was attached by Swallow when they built the boat, but I don’t know how they fixed it.

[Sea Simon]

The loss of stability due to "slack" tanks is a well recognised and very real danger to all craft/ships and is known as the "free surface effect".
Loads of maths, and some good videos readily available if you Google, and have time to kill...
This effect was cause of the Herald of Free Enterprise ferry capsize in 1987, 193 dead. Also contibuted to spectacular capsize of Hoegh Osaka car carrier in Southampton 2015.
FSEis scary!
Beware, the heeling moment when turning is proportional to the square of the speed...

I fitted a second Whale Gusher TITAN hand pump (JUST fits on the BRe transom board, by the outboard clamps. £100ish). My factory fit was the smaller Whale Urchin model.
Two pumps (cross the suctions, so the high pump sucks from low side) allows efficient access to one on each tack, as well as backup. Long suction hose allowed cabin pumpout, which fortunately was never used!

[Roger A]

Thanks everyone for your comments.

I also use currently use a drop in electric pump for emptying the ballast. What I am trying to do here is fit a permanent automatic pump in the sump that will keep the boat dry when on its swinging mooring. I leave it moored ballast in which means the BRe will not self bail and although the cockpit cover is good it can still allow some rain water in during summer storms. The secondary benefits will be to keep the cockpit dry when singlehanded sailing and act as a permanent ballast pump.

My main reason for posting was to try and find out how people have fitted pumps (or anything else!) to the floor of the sump. I've always been nervous about drilling holes in the bottom of boats!

The Rule Lopro pump has two 4mm mounting holes. I'm trying to decide whether to simply screw it onto the sump floor, bolt it through the floor or use threaded inserts which is my preference as it would facilitate easy removal.

I don't know what the thickness of the floor is, although I suspect 10mm, and whether it is solid GRP or perhaps has a wood core.

Any comments advice on these questions will be much appreciated. Thanks.

[RogerLennard]

I did fit an electric bilge pump in a mate's boat (An 18ft trailer sailer). He wanted a permanent fixture so I made a base plate from a piece of iroko with a circle cut out for the pump. The base plate was epoxied to stop it from rotting and attached to the hull with sealant (I never make holes in perfectly serviceable boats unless absolutely necessary). The bilge pump was held in place by cable ties.

[Sea Simon]

From the time I re-bedded my BRe Anderson bailers, I recall solid grp, no wood core. Perhaps 10mm thick, as appeared to be routed out at factory to fit bailer,  but probably thinner?

To secure things to sump bottom face, I'd epoxy/CTC some plastic cable tie bases to the hull, then tie whatever to these.
Don't rely on the self adhesive, it doesn't last.

RogerLs method sounds good?

[TheOldDuffer]

I have a bilge pump which I intend to have switched in the locker and be dropped into the ballast tank. I'd like a right-angled bend before the tubing, but can't seem to find the right size fitting (29mm). The pump is small so maybe the tube can bend enough without the fitting.

Of course, at the end of last season, I thought I'd have plenty of time, but since the start of the new year it's been either very cold or very wet and often both, so I hope to get my skates on before the start of the sailing season!