... Of interest is both security and ease of mooring/unmooring. On a previous boat, moving forward and reaching down off the bow was easy. On the BRe, going forward of the cockpit is to be avoided....
Use a good strong rope with a carbine hook for clicking on the mooring buoy. Lead the rope from one cabin roof cleat forward -INSIDE OF SHROUD- through one of the bow fairleads. Cleat it off so it protrudes the bow by 3-5 ft.., which is then the distance between booat and mooring buoy.
To unmoor, you stay in the cockpit, pull the rope in, release again, and then you hav slack to shake it loose out of the bow fairlead. The boat will then lie sideways, held by the shroud.
Now lean forward, grab the rope on the outside of the shroud, and pull the boat up to the mooring buoy. Unclick, and sail away. Keep the mooring rope cleated, just lead the slack with the carbine hook back to the cockpit, and keep it there. No leaving the cockpit so far.
To moor, you sail or motor up to the buoy, grab it from inside the cockpit when it's abeam, and click the mooring rope on. Now you are already safe on, though the boat still lies a bit sideways, as the mooring rope is held by the shroud.
From here you have two options: Either climb the foredeck and put the mooring rope into the bow fairlead, OR get into your punt, and put the mooring rope into the fairlead from outside before you row ashore.
The mooring rope with the carbine hook at the outer end, once cleated to the proper length, can stay cleated for the entire season.
Over the season, the mooring rope would rub and chafe a groove into the gunnel hardwood strip. To avoid, you can put a brass strip there, or a sacrificial hardwood strip. And you can change sides every other year.
BTW, the BRE will always be swaying somewhat on the mooring, regardless what you try to avoid. My own mooring is tidal so I cannot leave c/board of rudderblade down. I just let it sway. Tank full or empty, no matter.
C.