Author Topic: Rigging  (Read 357 times)

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Paul Samoilys

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Rigging
« on: 21 Mar 2024, 17:32 »
Any suggestions on the gap between sail and mast?  Is this normal?  Ineos Britannia rig has no gap….
Many thanks.

Llafurio

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Re: Rigging
« Reply #1 on: 21 Mar 2024, 18:16 »
Any suggestions on the gap between sail and mast?  Is this normal?  Ineos Britannia rig has no gap….
Many thanks.

Yes, that gap is normal for the Gunter rigged boats. It's simple, but it works fine.

Ineos Britannia has no gap there? Maybe because that's not a Gunter rigged Raidboat.

Unhappy about the gap?
: Go buy yourself Ineos Britannia, or a BR with a USA rig.  >:(

Claus Riepe

Ex various Drascombes, ex SeaRaider (WE) #1 "Craic", ex BR20 (GRE) "Llafurio", ex BR20 (GRP) "Tipsy", currently BRE (modified for open sea passages) "Homer", Drascombe Drifter "27" and Drascombe Drifter No. 31 "Amity". Homeport: Rossdohan

Llafurio

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Re: Rigging
« Reply #2 on: 21 Mar 2024, 18:19 »
And with a second look at your photo, may I suggest you rather bother about the tension of your Lazyjacks?  ::)
C.
Ex various Drascombes, ex SeaRaider (WE) #1 "Craic", ex BR20 (GRE) "Llafurio", ex BR20 (GRP) "Tipsy", currently BRE (modified for open sea passages) "Homer", Drascombe Drifter "27" and Drascombe Drifter No. 31 "Amity". Homeport: Rossdohan

Willie The Rut Lander

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Re: Rigging
« Reply #3 on: 21 Mar 2024, 18:34 »
Paul
You are right to be very concerned about that gap as it's significantly wider that on any Ineos boat. However, I may have a solution - after many years of experimenting I've believe the best option is rolled-up newspapers or old dog towels, tied to boom or mast (plaster of Paris may help). The issue I faced is that this is generally cost-prohibitive due to the expense of the string or elastic bands required to stop the newspapers or dog towels falling out.
I would be amazed if anyone has a more effective option.
Willie
BRe 001: Susannah (formerly Grace). Asymmetric, 6Hp, Jeckell's Rather Excellent Cockpit Tent

Ape Ears

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Re: Rigging
« Reply #4 on: 21 Mar 2024, 20:38 »
Hi Paul,

As Claus said, the gap is normal. The topping lifts need to be relaxed.

You may improve the mainsail shape by reducing the outhaul tension, attach the downhaul to the foot of the mast to tension the luff, and relax the topping lifts to remove the diagonal creases. Ensure the boom gooseneck is set high enough on the mast so that the sprit boom is angled downwards , thus removing the need for a kicking strap. If the mainsail is tensioned correctly you may not need the parrel bead strops around the mast.

The existing rig you have is brilliantly adaptable and easily handled. Do not be tempted to change to the USA rig until you have exhausted the permutations with your own sails. The original BayRaider with Gunter rig and self tacking jib is capable of outclassing all the subsequent variants in capable hands. Enjoy the boat as it is, and try not to overcomplicate it.

Can't afford Ineos Brittania, I have a new Dragonflite 95 due, self tacking jib already, but adding foils is a possibility!

Kind regards, Andrew


Andrew
SeaRaider No1 'Craic'
BayRaider Expedition No123 'Apus' (Swift)

Graham W

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Re: Rigging
« Reply #5 on: 21 Mar 2024, 21:25 »
Paul,

Looking at your photos with envy - it’s many years since I’ve sailed my boat off Corfu.

As others have said, there will always be a certain amount of gapping on the now vintage and highly collectible gunter-rigged BR20’s such as yours and mine.  However, the gap could be a little reduced in at least two ways:

1.  From the photo that you have posted, it looks like you have the downhaul arrangement that came with the boat when new, which can be difficult to tighten sufficiently.  I have replaced mine with a downhaul with a bit more mechanical advantage, as in the first two attached photos.  To tighten you pull the downhaul down rather than upwards, as in your original arrangement.  By the way, I'd replace the hardware that attaches to your luff's bottom cringle with an open hook like mine in the second photo - it's much quicker to attach than a shackle, which is important when reefing.

2.  I don't know how things work with a square mast compared to a rounded one like mine but I'd normally replace the thin strops you have around your mast with a stouter parrel bead and loop arrangement which allows you to adjust the tension with which the luff is held against the mast.  See the third photo.  I don’t think I’d ever be brave enough to forgo the strops, as Andrew suggests.

If your carbon fibre gunter yard is on the soft side, as many of the original ones were, you’ll find that the top of the mainsail sags to leeward in any sort of wind.  It may also sag backwards when you tighten the downhaul and outhaul.  None of this is helpful to efficient sail trim!   If this is the case, it may be a good idea to replace it with something stiffer, as in this thread https://www.swallowyachtsassociation.org/smf/index.php/topic,2923.msg16636.html#msg16636.  You might find a good secondhand windsurfer mast at the end of the season at Avlaki.
Graham
Gunter-rigged GRP BR20 #59 Turaco III

Paul Samoilys

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Re: Rigging
« Reply #6 on: 26 Mar 2024, 09:19 »
Many thanks for all your suggestions, photos and tips.  Not quite sure how to reply to each individual response, as there is just one 'reply' button.

If anyone finds themselves in Corfu between end May and late November please let me know.  Very welcome to sail the 'wine dark sea' with me.......