Author Topic: Mooring rigs  (Read 810 times)

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Dick Turnbull

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Mooring rigs
« on: 01 Jun 2024, 12:43 »
I have recently bought a BRE which I intend to keep on a swinging mooring. Do any members have any comments on the best way to 'rig' a mooring? i.e. Is the 'trailer ring' on the bow strong enough on it's own or should I put mooring warps on the mooring buoy to attach to the boats forward cleats via the guides by the bowsprit?
Any comments would be welcome.
Thanks, Dick Turnbull.


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Re: Mooring rigs
« Reply #1 on: 01 Jun 2024, 20:15 »
I kept my BRe on a swinging mooring in an exposed spot. I used a plastic coated cable shackled to the tow ring, with a heavy clip at the free end. It worked  fine but I did back it up with a bridle taken from both bow fairleads. The only hitch I had was due to my own carelessness in attaching a zinc plated shackle to the stainless ring at the free end. This disintegrated after only a few weeks, fortunately whilst I was busy clipping onto my mooring rather than after leaving the boat. Otherwise the set up was robust in some rough conditions.

Graham W

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Gunter-rigged GRP BR20 #59 Turaco III

Sea Simon

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Re: Mooring rigs to single buoy swing mooring, tidal river
« Reply #3 on: 02 Jun 2024, 10:20 »
Thanks GW.

Overall view of my BRe mooring set up.
Ballast generally left in. Interior stays clean/dry due to overall mooring cover.

Note also all the anti seagull devices! You'll  need to think about that too!
BRe # 52 - "Two Sisters"  2016. Plank sprit, conventional jib. Asym spinn. Coppercoat. Honda 5. SOLD Nov 2022....
...From Oct 22.
BC 26 #1001. "Two Sisters 2", 2013. Alloy spars, Bermudan Sloop; fixed twin spade rudders, Beta diesel saildrive. Lift keel with lead bulb. Coppercoat. Cornwall UK.


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Re: Mooring rigs
« Reply #4 on: 03 Jun 2024, 17:20 »
I am making a temporary mooring and had the same question about using the bow ring. I can’t see an answer in previous posts.

I was going to use a short mooring line with a screw-gate carbine to attach to the towing eye. Then a longer backup line to the deck cleat. The idea behind putting the main load through the towing ring is to resolve the chafe issue , as the line through the fairlead will normally be slack (May need to tie it down so it doesn’t pop out of the fairlead).

Does this seem like a suitable idea? I thought the bow towing eye ought to be strong enough to moor the boat, given its use hauling it onto the trailer
BR20 Gunter-rigged