BC23 Woodwork

[Killick]

As the proud owner of a new, to us, BC23 I thought Id would lavish some TLC on the woodwork today, well the sun was shining. I have read various discussions on this forum as to what type of varnish/covering is best. I think the original covering was Cetol which has now morphed into Woodskin but I have no idea if its the original colour.

I'm now back to the bare wood so this is an opportunity to try something else. Any suggestions will be gratefully received and carefully considered. The boat colour is dark blue and the stuff I have removed was dark brown. I think the darker colour blends well with the hull. What do you think? Cheers.

[Llafurio]

I use "Bondex" Mahogany. I apply using a sponge brush or wipe with a wetted cloth, to avoid spray.
I never sand thereafter, just patch up or redo where needed before next season.
I use Bondex as it appears to have a higher wax content than Ronseal or Sadolin Classic.

[Sea Simon]

I'm  no expert on wood species or their treatments, but...

My BC 26 toe rails, handrails, cockpit handles and locker handles are Iroko, so I'm  told by local specialists. However, I understand there is still some scope for debate? Teak deck, bare.

When I bought this 2013 boat 3 yrs ago, this trim wood appears to have been stained (perhaps sikkens, at yard?) Then (perhaps later?) over coated with some sort of varnish? Hard, glassy, and most importantly-cracking/splitting/peeling. So, I stripped it all, mechanically.

I've  treated the greening/slimey deck with "Boracol" several times since (start and end of season see above specialists), and this works well. No scrubbing, and it comes up well. I've  treated the trim woods at the same time.

HOWEVER...this spring, after a winter ashore, outdoors in a dryish (for Cornwall!) Yard, the "sunnyside" toe rails are exhibiting visible "checking"" - small, shallow cracks/splits, generally along the grain. That part of the boat is not covered.

The specialists  tell me that this is an unavoidable  characteristic of the (v probably) Iroko wood.
Important bit: The Iroko MUST be treated, not left stripped - or it WILL crack/split. How badly???

So, what to treat it with? Any thoughts? Its not just about looks, but mainly the stability/integrity of the timber - albeit a trim, not really structural.
It must be done before summer.. outdoors, in a changeable spring.

I have some left over Burgess Hydrosol here, which the Drascombe factory uses(d?) On my Lugger when new. It has the great practical advantage of being waterbased. Some swear by it. However, I'm  not keen on the dried finish. Might be OK for toe rails, but not stuff I see closely/touch.

I also have ready access to Sikkens Cetol, the finish of which I prefer. It seemed to last (no checking) from new. I think I'll try that...without the varnish (?) Over the top? I have the both parts/layers.

I was considering trying both, but only the "sunnyside" is exhibiting  checking. I have no say over the orientation  of the boat in the yard. Therefore, it could be an inconsistent experiment?

I'm  interested to learn of "Bondex", which I've not heard of before. Popular in Eire? You must know a thing or two about wet wood out there!

Sorry for the long post- but, OP,  you should probably use "something" 
ie perhaps don't leave your stripped wood bare, but if you do - keep a very good eye on it.

[Llafurio]

Bondex: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bondex-Outdoor-Wood-Stain-Litre/dp/B07PHFKVW5/ref=sr_1_1?crid=2AIZSRZ1D8ZYS&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.wAh7MAZtsx5X93JoVEZqEQ.F59o7paF4a2E78utkYqVF_EjiAdHjX8TNiisXGbgeIk&dib_tag=se&keywords=bondex+solvent+based+mahogany&qid=1740562088&sprefix=bondex+solvent+based+mahogany%2Caps%2C96&sr=8-1#productDetails

The Bondex colour "Mahogany" looks very nice, and its high level of dark pigmentation (compared to "Teak") makes it more resilient against UV.
The Atlantic seabord of Ireland does not only have a moisture problem, but also has very high UV radiation levels.

[The Lazy Sheet]

Hi Killick

You don't say if your BC23 is stored with wood exposed to the elements. FWIW - my BRe 001 is under a cover (or in a garage) for >90% of the year and the Cetol-finished wood is in excellent condition. However, I've seen several BC23s and BRes that live outside and show high levels of wear and tear.

So, if your BC23 is covered then Cetol is fine but if it's more exposed to the elements then follow advice from the Hero members or Demi God. 

My Cetol is quite dark - I can look at tin if you wish (possibly 'mahogany').

Willie

[Graham W]

I've seen several BC23s and BRes that live outside and show high levels of wear and tear.

My 2010 BR20 is stored outside, albeit under a tarpaulin when not in use.  Its hull woodwork (which is African sapele or utile) was in a shocking state, having been neglected by me for many years.  I have now given it a complete overhaul, which comprised sanding back to bare wood and then three coats of Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 Plus, with mild rubbing down between coats using maroon 3M Scotch-Brite pads.  The Cetol colours used are the original yard-applied ones for my dark green boat, which are teak for the gunwales, rubbing strips, centreboard capping and cockpit rails; and pine for the spruce mast and spars.  I think it now looks like new and will just need touching up now and then for several years ahead.

[Sea Simon]

GW, thanks.

To be clear.
You just used Cetol filter 7 plus? No cetol HLS plus as a stain/undercoat?
Why this method?
New to you, or as a result of your past experiences?

Vmt...

[Graham W]

You just used Cetol filter 7 plus? No cetol HLS plus as a stain/undercoat?
Why this method?
New to you, or as a result of your past experiences?

I knew that I had read somewhere not to bother with HLS and just do three coats of Filter 7+.  I finally tracked down the thread https://www.swallowyachtsassociation.org/smf/index.php/topic,1332.0.html.  I'm fairly sure that my local wooden boat specialist, who did such a good job on renewing my mast, was of the same opinion.

[Sea Simon]

VMT GW.

I have some concerns about the full Sikkens Cetol system, used on boats in salt water.
Some proper wood boat guys hereabouts say a full cetol system can behave more like varnish.  Seals at first, then later fails - cracks or bubbles up and lifts off in strips or sheets once it fails. The "danger" is that water can lie in the bubbles and so start rot. At first glance the finish appears deceptively good. One Crabber in my yard says his bowsprit rotted this way.
(The experts also say the answer is don't trim a plastic boat with wood, if you don't  want work 😉. ..)
Maybe that was what I was seeing when I took the boat on? But it seemed hard and glassy to me. I bought Bahco T carbide scrapers for the job. Toenail work hard on the knees!

The wood is dark enough without stain, for me, and looks stunning atm, freshly sanded.  I'm happy to leave natural, weathered grey.
However, because of the "checking" something to protect it MUST be applied.

I will follow you (and JSs advice from Swallow in post #2 in reference  link) and use just the Cetol filter 7 + on the toe rails. I have that here.

I think I'll experiment a little though, and use the full CETOL system (both components) on my freshly stripped Plywood washboards.

I'm interested  in Llafurios new-to-me  "potion,"  Bondex  but already have too many part used, very expensive "finish systems" lying about here.
As my wife reminds me...now I'm an old retired bloke, my labour is the cheapest it's ever been - it's the "paint" which costs!

Hopefully, the OP might find some of this hijack useful?

[Killick]

Thank you all for the feedback. I shall give it some thought. Our boat lives in the marina during summer and spends winter under cover. We are on the east coast UK so enjoy the usual weather typical at this lattitude.
Cheers.