Author Topic: BayCruiser 20 build  (Read 16876 times)

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Jim Levang

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BayCruiser 20 build
« on: 03 Dec 2012, 16:09 »
I have posted a bunch of pictures in the new Gallery area of the building sequence for the BC 20 that my son and I launched this past summer. If there are any questions or comments, I can take them here in the Forum.

Jim

Michael Rogers

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Re: BayCruiser 20 build
« Reply #1 on: 05 Dec 2012, 11:18 »
Welcome, Jim (and son)!

Your 'bunch of pictures' has me, for one, almost speechless with admiration. What a sequence, what a beautiful boat, what a workshop, what tidy working....etc etc! All I can find to say more is - very well done, happy sailing, and thank you for a valuable archive demonstrating 'how to do it'!

Am I right that you're over the pond somewhere?

Michael (Trouper 12 Cavatina)

Jim Levang

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Re: BayCruiser 20 build
« Reply #2 on: 05 Dec 2012, 18:22 »
Michael:

Yes, our home port is Duluth, Minnesota, USA on Lake Superior, the world's largest freshwater body of water (by surface area). Construction started in the spring of 2010 and she was launched this past July. My son's name is Sam and I would be years away from completion without his involvement. I have more pictures yet in a Picasa album at:
https://picasaweb.google.com/111091018237930049744/BayCruiserBuild?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Jim

Brian Robertson

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Re: BayCruiser 20 build
« Reply #3 on: 06 Dec 2012, 00:14 »
A beautiful job Jim.  And so extensively documented!  :)

I note a couple of customisations from standard SB build.  I like the idea of putting the water tank in the under seat locker.  I must try that out in mine (about the limit of my DIY skills!)
BC20 #05 Amy Pearl

Jim Levang

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Re: BayCruiser 20 build
« Reply #4 on: 06 Dec 2012, 02:59 »
We did a bunch of mostly minor mods to the original design. I think that they mostly worked out:
Water tank location - Keeps the center of gravity lower and led to a minor galley reconfiguration that made it generally more useful.
Companionway step - I'm 6'3", 240lbs with size 14 feet (190cm, 110kg, shoe size 48 in euro) and the little chunk of wood on the centerboard case didn't look adequate. The step we did works great and is a fine place to stand while sailing.
Electrical "Closet" - We ended up with a considerably more complicated electrical system which largely stemmed from picking up an (apparent) bargain Torqeedo off of Ebay. We made an attempt at a solar electric auxiliary power but the Torqeedo first wussed out and then crapped out (replaced at least temporarily by a Mercury-branded Tohatsu 5 horse, can't afford the Torqeedo that would actually do the trick). Once the decision is made to to have an electrical system at all, it is easy to get carried away. We simply needed a place to house everything. Take note of the wiring run in the foam of the cabin top and the custom terminals for the solar panels.
Transom drains - I wasn't so keen on the sump and venturi bailer scheme so did a sort ramp thing on either side of the outboard well with using a cut-in-half PVC pipe to scuppers through the transom right at the waterline. My son was concerned that we would always have wet feet, but the only time any water comes in is with a whole bunch of people in the cockpit while at anchor, and not enough comes in to be a problem.
Lightning attenuation system - I don't know if this will work and I hope I never find out, but we sail in an area where thunderstorms come up quickly and can be hard to escape. The nature of this boat and it's materials make it somewhat problematic in a lightning strike. The carbon fiber mast conducts well enough to make it a target but not so well that it wouldn't explode sending nasty shrapnel everywhere. At the base of the mast, side flashes would be likely head toward the various water tanks, creating havoc on the way through and on the way out. I might be paranoid, but the materials and setup of this boat forced me to do something. What we did was to run a heavy gauge aluminum wire inside the mast (the type of wire used for terrestrial lightning rod systems) from an aluminum rod air terminal at the masthead to a beefy terminal on the cabin top. That connects to a big fat wire buried in the foam of the cabin top then to a run of aluminum bar stock that goes forward right over the top of the stem to an aluminum keel band that runs the length of the boat. This should both ground things well enough to keep static charges down and give the lightning an adequate path if we ever do get hit. This also gave us an opportunity to add some metal reinforcement to the centerboard pin but created the problem of needing a custom anchor light. My son's home made LED anchor light was an elegant solution (pictures attached). The only issue so far, besides having no idea if it will work, is that we should have tensioned that wire somehow as it bangs around inside of the mast while at anchor making a fairly annoying sound.
I'm sure we made some other departures from the straight and narrow but they are not coming to me right now. I know that the rigging is not entirely standard but my kid put that together and my knowledge is limited.

Jim

Julian Swindell

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Re: BayCruiser 20 build
« Reply #5 on: 06 Dec 2012, 09:13 »
I think the last photo on Jim's set of BC20 construction pictures says what we all think:

http://www.swallowyachtsassociation.org/wordpress/wp-content/gallery/bc20-build/p1030161.jpg

This is a stunning boat.
Julian Swindell
BayCruiser 20 Daisy Grace
http://jegsboat.wordpress.com/
Guillemot building blog
https://jegsguillemot.wordpress.com/

Tony

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Re: BayCruiser 20 build
« Reply #6 on: 18 Jan 2013, 11:50 »
Hi, Jim.

Big project!
Great Job!
(I felt tired just looking at the pictures!)

I notice the smiles in the pictures were a lot broader once she was on the water. Hardly surprising as the BR 20 is a damn fine boat . (I reviewed one for “Watercraft” magazine back in 2009.) I’m sure you’re going to love her.

Re:- Rattling lightning conductor inside mast.
A friend had a similar problem with his aluminium mast.  The wiring to his (retro-fitted) masthead light tapped at every movement, driving him nuts. He tried more tension; less tension; wooden spacers; duck tape – no joy. (Never known duck tape fail  before. Fixes everything for me.)
In desperation he filled the mast with self-expanding foam insulation blagged from a builders merchant.
It worked!
Can’t say I recommend it, though. What happens if he ever wants to get it out again?

rgerfy

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Re: BayCruiser 20 build
« Reply #7 on: 21 Jan 2013, 17:13 »
Very nice boat.  Did you build from plans or a kit?  Where/how do I get the plans? 

Bob Gerfy


Jim Levang

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Re: BayCruiser 20 build
« Reply #8 on: 21 Jan 2013, 19:41 »
Tony:

I also felt tired just watching my energetic son working on it. Like I said, it would be years off if it was just me. As for the expanding foam, great minds must think alike! We recently had the stainless steel fabrication for the side stays and jib halyard off (hounds?) for some modifications and decided to shoot some expanding foam into the mast through the rivet holes while we had the opportunity. We only put enough in to immobilize the wire at that location so I'm not sure it will cure the problem. It was minus 20 Fahrenheit last night so it will be a while before we find out if it did the trick.

Jim

Jim Levang

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Re: BayCruiser 20 build
« Reply #9 on: 22 Jan 2013, 23:54 »
Bob:

The boat was constructed from a panel kit from Swallow Boats. It took a year of badgering and cajoling Matt to talk him into selling me one as he had not intended to market this boat as a kit. You will have to do your own badgering and cajoling. Plans as such do not actually exist as the design resides entirely in 3D computer modeling space and never goes to paper. My first negotiating ploy was to try and talk Matt out of his CAD files with some sort of one use licensing agreement but that didn't fly. His panel kit was very reasonably priced, too reasonable I think.

Jim

Ian Cowie

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Re: BayCruiser 20 build
« Reply #10 on: 31 Jan 2013, 13:41 »
Jim,

You build is excellent.

I have discussed with Matt the possibility of building a BC20 from a kit but he has been reluctant.

His reasons are that he wants to maintain the quality of the builds and the complication involved. Another problem for him is the time demands of writing building instructions and dealing with subsequent telephone calls.

I think that one of the advantages that you had in obtaining a flat pack was that you are overseas and the costs of shipping a completed boat are considerable.

Do you or your son have any woodworking qualifications although it would appear from your workshop that you have quite a bit of woodworking and boatbuilding experience. This may have been another  factor in Matt's decsion in sending you a flat pack. You can obviously deal with a lot of problems as they arise.

Alas in my case the lack of a suitable workspace is a big factor in embarking on such a project.

Ian Cowie
Coaster "Moksha"

Jim Levang

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Re: BayCruiser 20 build
« Reply #11 on: 31 Jan 2013, 17:16 »
Ian:

I will have to admit to 30 some years in the woodworking business/trade. I am currently an estimator at a commercial/institutional architectural woodworking firm but I spent the first twenty-some years as a guy actually building stuff, the first few in a boatyard. I have built a bunch of small boats since. Undoubtedly my resume worked in my favor in talking Matt into selling me a panel kit. My son, although lacking my level of experience, is considerably smarter and more industrious than I am. Sam, who recently graduated from college,  became interested in boatbuilding in his high school years when we jointly built a fishin' boat, a Phil Bolger designed Diablo (photos attached). The BayCruiser project began as Sam helping Dad, morphed to Dad helping Sam, then to Dad as The Spiritual Advisor and finally to Dad as The Guy With The Credit Card. Sam has been back home for the last few weeks furiously making improvements. I'll post more pictures soon.

Jim