Storm 15 - Blanced Lug Rigging

[Trevor Burdon]

I am close to finishing my build of the Storm 15 with Balanced lug sai but don't have a copy of that instruction annex. Is anyone able to help, please.

Regards Trevor

[Tony]

Not sure what an "Instruction annex" might be, Trevor, but here's a link to a  picture of a Storm 15 with balanced lug built by Andrew Denman in Australia. It may not help but its a nice shot !!

http://www.denmanmarine.com.au/sitebuildercontent/sbsimages/misc/show_image.html?linkedwidth=actual&linkpath=http://www.denmanmarine.com.au/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/s15launch1051.jpg&target=tlx_picd1kg

Rigging details are reasonably visible. Apparently she sails very well. 
More pictures on this link, below - once you've scrolled past all the flippin' BayRaiders!

http://www.denmanmarine.com.au/id68.html

[Trevor Burdon]

Thank you for the photograph links, Tony.

I have now heard back from Andrew directly and know pretty much where everything goes.

FYI the Swallow Boats build instructions come with an introductory overview specific to a boat design supported by many annex(s) that are general across related designs.

Regards

Trevor

[Trevor Burdon]

Well I've been delayed a little. I have studied Andrews rigging outline, but am still wondering about:

1. Attachment point for halyard to yard
2. Crossover point of mast and boom
3. Rowlock position

Any thoughts from fellow posters will be very gratefully received.

Swallow must have some defaults for their production builds, and I'm wondering what they are. I have sent an email through to them directly on that Instruction Manual Annex.

[Tony]

Hi, Trevor.
Sorry to take so long but this might help.

Photo shows the way Alex Haig rigged the yard on his (now MY..) Deben Lugger hybrid "Wabi".
 
1.
I use what I considered (note past tense) to be a more sophisticated method on my CBL "Four Sisters", involving parrelbeads, blocks and all sorts of other salty sailorman goodies.
Truth is you don't need 'em on a small boat. The method shown is infinitely adjustable yet stays just where you put it. It's basically a loop of blue pre-stretched stuff (or dynema) wound around the yard about 60% of the way along with the halyard  bent on with a simple bowline.  Looks as if chafe would kill it but in fact it's no problem and has stood up to a couple of gales effortlessly. I might worry if I was planning an Atlantic crossing, as it is I just twiddle it around a bit each time I launch.
The leathering on the yard helps it grip but on a wooden yard it might not be needed.

 The 60/40 position on the yard is fairly critical - experiment to get it to work well with your hull/daggerboard profile.
(The loose black bowline shown, looped around the mast and down to the deck) is a brilliantly simple way to hold the yard close to the mast, reefed or otherwise. When released, the yard can be raised or lowered without any risk of it jamming - as parrel beads are prone to do.)

2.
Mast and boom "Crossover point" is absolutely critical. Get it wrong (as I have done before now) and you won't go to windward!
Use the same idea, a  loop of thinnish tough stuff wound around the boom, but use a block to give a 2:1 purchase, lead it to the deck right next to the mast. (This needs to be reinforced to give acceptable luff tension.)  Don't over do it with a more powerful purchase or you'll shove the mast right through the bottom of the boat! Again, the ability to slide the attachment point on the boom back  and forth makes the whole thing easily adjustable to get you pointing as high as possible. Just remember to mark where the "sweet spot" is so you don't end up with it in "running off the wind" mode when you're trying to get up to windward!
(Photos are not too clear - not taken with this in mind!)
3.
Can't help you here. Rowlock position rather depends on where your thwart can go. Don't make that item too narrow - and fix something to brace your feet against - and (most important) get oars long enough to do the job. I thought "Four Sisters" impossible to row until I tried a pair of 12 foot oars on her and went zooming around like a speed boat!

[Steve Joyce]

hi Trevor, I bought 8' 6" oars for my Storm 15. which seem to work ok for me.

I spent an hour or so sitting in the boat on the trailer to work out where to put the rowlocks (also dreaming of it being complete and on the water).  I should have someone to throw buckets of water at me to complete the illusion.

Rowing in reality is quite ok but I still need to fit a footrest of some sort and something better to sit on, but on a flat lake without putting too much effort in it is ok.

Those oars don't stow very easily though. I am contemplating cutting out a semi circle on the underside of the cb support so the oar will slide underneath.  failing that I have them each side if the cb with a bungee to hold them together.

[Terry Cross]

Storm 15 Rowing & Stowing
Hi Trevor & Steve
I have fitted a removable thwart which slots over the seat on the aft of center board case ( which I also find useful when sailing in light airs or down wind).
We used to stow the oars, as you suggested under the  C B supports but they where not easily accessible.
A removable strut has been fitted across the deck, just aft of the outboard well, protruding about 12” over each gunnel. The oars remain in the rowlocks , rest on the strut  and are held in place with shock cord loops. This has proved to be successful even when the boat is well heeled.

[Steve Joyce]

Thanks Terry,  your list of useful modifications keeps growing. These may interest Trevor too.
I should have followed your lead re the electric motor attached to the rudder.  Instead I cut a hole,  and tried a Yamaha 2.5 motor.  Only used it a couple of times and came to the conclusion that it was just too noisy,  and gets in the way when sailing,  so think i will be selling the outboard and plugging up the hole again.

One mod I have made may interest readers.  I found that my mast was continually twisting round which caused wear to the mast against the king plank and step.  My mod is in the picture attached.  Basically a clamp glued to the underside of the king plank to secure the mast.  This could be modified to stop water dripping into bay cruisers.  (the groove on the right is to clear a path for the jib sheet).

[Terry Cross]

Thanks Steve
Re. Outboard on rudder
Someone tel. me a couple of weeks a go saying they could not find the post.
It appears to have been deleted from the Forum.
Terry Cross  "IONA"

[Graham W]

Re. Outboard on rudder
Someone tel. me a couple of weeks a go saying they could not find the post.
It appears to have been deleted from the Forum.

It's still there http://www.swallowyachtsassociation.org/smf/index.php/topic,290.0.html

[Trevor Burdon]

Thanks everybody. I too don't visit that often as the forum is not very busy.

I have my Storm 15, Ceffyl Dwr all rigged and am getting used to her under light conditions.

Tony
I do understand that getting the yard and boom crossovers right is critical, and have experienced first hand that inability to point if the sail is too far forward. Do you have any other rule that will stop me from changing both? On the Storm 15, how wide is the strip of sail ahead of the mast? Is the luff? parallel to the mast?

Steve
I found some older better balanced oars at 8', but think they are a bit short. I will be keeping a good lookout for 8'6" from now on. I agree a footrest is much better and have made up a thin rectangular frame which sits around the wooden block that secures the main sheet block. The final version will allow for secure placement backwards and forwards.

Terry
I made up a small seat as my CB top is narrow not spade shaped. It rests on top. I do like your idea of a removable thwart or perhaps even a permanent one, as that would help stiffen up the CB case.

Steve
I suspect if you've had some accelerated wear from mast turning then I am likely too as well. I will be leathering my mast where it passes through the king plank and maybe at the foot. Hopefully the friction from both will be enough to prevent any turning.

Terry, Graham
That water-snake motor looks interesting and cheap. Did either of you:
1. Look at the Electric Paddle first?
2. Experiment with mounting the motor over the side?

I'm guessing you'll be curious. Here are some photographs from the launch in the Dentrecasteaux Channel, Tasmania - just down the road from Denman Marine who provided me with the kit.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qwhs4zkdon27pn2/TaCCTHOkiF

[Tony]

Hi, Trevor.
Take a look at the pictures of luggers here, especially the Storm 15.

http://compare-a-sail.blogspot.co.uk/?m=1

[Johan Ellingsen]

Motor in rudder!I tried it over the side of my CBL,not convenient.

Cheers,
Johan

[Julian Swindell]

That looks really neat. Am I right in thinking you can slide the whole thing up out of the way when it is shallow? Have you actually tried it in the water yet? I have seen this arrangement on big canal boats before, but not on a sailing boat.

[Johan Ellingsen]

Yes,the rudder pulls up as designed but needs a more powerful pulley arrangement because of the increased weight.Not properly tried yet,big question is vibration.Will keep you posted.