I have a BR20 with conventional jib, short bowsprit and a CF one piece mast.
When built the halyard connected to a 4:1 block system before attaching to the head of the sail to aid luff tensioning, I guess your boat is similarly built.
So if you think about it the forestay will always become slack as you tension the halyard due to the mechanical advantage when tensioning the jib.
The trick is I believe to have a nice tension on the forestay when the jib luff is not tensioned, so minimal slack is introduced when the jib is tensioned, that way the slack forestay does not interfere with the jib when rolling it out or furling it away.
My method is to have the jib tensioned sufficiently to remove the sag in the luff of the sail, have the forestay length so that the shackle can be attached to the eye on the bowsprit when pulling hard on the forestay.
Finish tensioning the jib to achieve a taught luff of the jib and I find then that the slack on the forestay is kept to a minimum but it will always be there.
I normally leave my boat rigged on the hard at my local reservoir so minimal preparation left to do before I can sail, but I do drop the jib and tuck it away under the cover to keep the weather from getting at it, the forestay quite obviously then takes over the role of keeping the mast up and at that point the forestay and standing rigging is nicely taught.
I have however removed the inline 4:1 block system from the head of the jib because the amount of length of halyard to keep tidy in the boat when the jib is tensioned is to much for me its several mtrs. Matt also offered another solution which keeps the length of the halyard down to a more manageable length, this is by having a loop in the halyard at a height where a 4:1 handy billy could be attached. I have had to implement a different approach due to my jib having an Aeroluff spar fitted in the jib so i can reef the jib if required.
Trust this makes sense and helps
Peterc