Strops on a BRE 20

[Mark Henderson]

Can anyone advise me as to the best configuration for a pair of strops? I currently have 2 fairly short ones that run through the fairlane at a fairly steep angle down to the buoy. Two problems: as the boat swings it puts quite a lot of pressure on the cable securing the bowsprit and the second is that as it bounces it jars the shackle - I've already lost one despite wiring it.
Is a longer strop the answer or possibly a Y configuration. I'm particularly alarmed about the potential damage to the bowsprit fittings.
BTW, I'm using 2 strops as 1 means the boat swings all over the place.

[Sea Simon]

 Search "mooring"

[Mark Henderson]

Alas cannot find the link

[Sea Simon]

Search "mooring"

BRE.

E.g.

https://www.swallowyachtsassociation.org/?page_id=17&URL=https://www.swallowyachtsassociation.org/smf/index.php?topic=1912

With a lightweight, highly wind influenced boat, and If on water subject to both wind and tide/current, then in my experience (and I'm  lucky enough to be able to monitor the mooring from my sitting room much of the past 35 years) swaying/swinging/sawing is inevitable - so prepare for it!  ...IMHO...

I've tried damping with drogues streamed off the stern (buckets and old car tyres mostly, although I had a source of free SOLAS type ex liferaft drogues at one time) but these can place significant  and surging loads on the fairleads/cleats, especially once they foul with weed/sticks. Their ropes chafe too, and I've lost several to the river.  And, where do you leave the filthy object whilst using the boat? Hence, I've  given up now...

If its any consolation, my BC 26 (on a deep water mooring further downstream)  also saws about, but to a lesser degree. Even with the keel left down (not a good idea, see above re weed/sticks, and logs if unlucky!).
My sawing Particularly noticeable as a neighbour is a trad long keel heavy displacement cruiser. However, he too will sway about in strong wind over tide.

...and consider protecting your mooring lines against UV too!

[Mark Henderson]

Sea Simon...thank you. A hero indeed.

[Sea Simon]

Thanks.

IMHO the three main problems to solve are.
1. Chafe (mainly at cleats, fairleads and against bobstay wire. ).
2. UV damage to your ropes/strops.
3. "Twisting up" when the boat _mooring attachment doesn't  swivel/turn properly as the boat rotates around the mooring. This can result in a "Spanish windlass" type of loading effect on your cleats/fairleads as the ropes/strops shorten. NOT GOOD!
 It can also cause the bow to be pulled down into the water, as the strops shorten. Similar effect if the riser chain
 attachment to the buoy does not Swivel.

Ease corrosion problems by buying quality parts (NOT ebay tat, Cheap Chinese swivels and shackles _ I try to use stuff certified for lifting, from a reputable  UK firm). Use as big a size as will physically fit. Parts rated for lifting (often referred to as "green pin") will be automatically  oversized for "pulling" duty.
Jimmy Green Marine are good (they publish a mooring guide too), as is lifting-slings (10908) on ebay.

Beware "mixed metals" eg stainless with Galv.
Mouse all shackles! Ideally with monel wire, but even our Harbour Co moorings use cable ties nowadays.

Remove your topside mooring system from the buoy over winter, and store it at home. Amazes me how many folk just leave it all rattling round their buoys for months. When I used to lay my own mooring, I used to "swamp" the whole thing over the winter (take the big buoy off, and drop all chain to the river bed), lasts much longer.

I've witnessed at lot of failures over the years...only a few of which were mine! However, the only time my boats have been damaged was when someone else's broke free,  and tangled with mine in v strong winds.
Hence my prattling on at length on this topic!

Some good advice here, from an YC on the Tamar with big tides.
https://www.cargreenyacht.club/moorings/

Download the mooring guide
https://www.cargreenyacht.club/resources/downloads/MOORINGS_AT_CARGREEN_June_2016.pdf