Removing Fender Tie Off / Locker Handrails

[garethrow]

Having had my BR20 for 3 years I would quite like to remove the wooden rails that go along the front of the seats / along the edge of the lockers which are used to tie off fender ropes for a bit of TLC. I am slightly wary of doing this for two resons:

One is that whilst I can see the rails on the lockers are bolted through to inside the locker lid, I don't know what the shorther rails fore and aft of the lokers are screwed into. I assume they can't be bolted on. If I remove the screws and then come to reattach with the same screws - am I going to have problems? (may seem a dumb question but GRP is new to me as I have always had wooden boats in the past!).

Secondly, I note the rails along the locker edge have a reasonable curve in them to follow the curvature of the locker. When I come to re-attach with the bolts, is this a tricky job? Has anyone done this? Any tips?

Many thanks

Gareth Rowlands
GPR BR20 Halen Y Mor

[Sea Simon]

Before fretting too much about preserving curvature etc, perhaps try to remove one?

I tried mine and they were "bonded " (Sikkaflex or similar?)  As well as wood-screwed...fearing damage, I gave up,and hand scraped/sanded in place.
I removed the screws and caps to make the task much easier,  the rails remained attached.

They are now bare teak, treated with Boracol same as decks and cabin top handrails (similarly bonded and screwed down.) Giving a pleasing (to me) silver grey natural finish which is easily maintained.

[dermot]

I removed mine earlier this year. They were just screwed into the GRP, no bolts anywhere. They were also glued in place and there was some minor damage to the gel coat when the first one came off, however not deep and easily fixed (also hidden now the rails are back in place). For the rest I was able to ease a thin palette knife between the wood and GRP and cut through the glue. I was then able to use a chisel to gently remove the glue from GRP and wooden rails.
The curvature was not a problem when replacing, I was careful to mark them so they all went back in the same places. I also reapplied some sikkaflex, the screws held, but being careful not to overtighten to avoid stripping the GRP holes.

[garethrow]

Thanks Dermot - that's very helpful. I have removed the setscrews but was wondering how to break the adhesive bond without causing damage to the surround - I am encouraged that you have mamaged this.

Regards

Gareth Rowlands
GRP BR20 Halen Y Mor

[Nicky R]

We took our locker handles off to varnish them. Mark apparently broke the seal by using his fingers under the wooden bits and peeling them off. You could put a screwdriver off to gently pull, but would need to be careful not to damage the gel coat.

[garethrow]

Thanks Nicky - I have been pulling without a result, so obviously need to eat more Weetabix!

Regards

Gareth Rowlands
BR20 Halen Y Mor

[garethrow]

I have finally got the tie off rails off, or at least the two midship locker ones and the two aft ones. I found the best way to do it (should anyone else be keen enough to want to do this) is to use a long piece of cheese wire, about 3ft, and use a sawing motion to cut through the sealent. Beware - the wire gets quite hot and does not last long before snapping. I worked my way through 3 or 4 pieces before completing the task. Once I have varnished the rails I think I will re-attach with the same set screws minus the cupped wshers but countersink the holes to take the screw heads sub surface - making a future in situ sanding job somewhat easier. I will use the same sealent  to bond the rails on as this is where the strength lies as I don't think the screw thread has much purchase in the fiberglass.

Gareth Rowlands
GRP BR20 Halen Y Mor