Author Topic: Plastic well flaps fouling outboard motor  (Read 12001 times)

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Jonathan Stuart

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Plastic well flaps fouling outboard motor
« on: 18 Aug 2012, 21:02 »
We're still learning about our now not-quite-so-new BRe...today I had to do some tight manoeuvring and needed to reverse. Our outboard is a Mariner 2 stroke 3.3hp (standard shaft), which has no reverse gear so is swung round 180 degrees to reverse. I tried that today for the first time and found the motor won't swivel more than 90 degrees because it then snags on the plastic flaps on the outboard well. One bent plastic flap later and I decided it *definitely* won't turn!

The problem is that the motor has a small plate a few inches above the anti cavitation plate (see picture) and this hits the bent down plastic flaps such that the flaps limit how much the motor can be turned.

Is this a common problem or am I just unlucky that this motor doesn't quite clear the flaps? I like the light weight of this motor and it pushes the boat nicely, but if it won't rotate 180 degrees then it may be time to replace it with a model that has reverse gear...
Jonathan

Ex - BayCruiser 26 #11 "Bagpuss"
Ex - BayRaider Expedition #3 "Mallory"

Peter Cockerton

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Re: Plastic well flaps fouling outboard motor
« Reply #1 on: 18 Aug 2012, 22:24 »
Jonathon

Not sure by how much the engine needs to drop to clear the problem but can't you lower the transom mount on the engine by cutting a slot in the transom so the mount is lower or will that cause other parts of the engine to foul the transom. Just a thought to save buying another engine.


Peter
Bayraider 20 mk2
Larger jib set on bowsprit with AeroLuff spar
USA rig
Carbon Fibre main boom with sail stack pack
Epropulsion Spirit Plus Outboard

Andy Dingle

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Re: Plastic well flaps fouling outboard motor
« Reply #2 on: 18 Aug 2012, 23:03 »
My thoughts on outboards for the Bayraider (and BRe - which I am assuming is even heavier?) are well documented in previous threads.

Your choice of engine obviously depends on where you will be sailing. But my personal opinion is that I wouldn't go anywhere near the sea without an engine with ample power and forward/reverse gearing and with a separate fuel connection to connect a healthy (and clean) additional fuel supply to - what if the fuel in your integral tank gets contaminated by water etc?

Even attempting to manoeuvre in a crowded marina or moorings in a strong cross wind fills me with dread at the thought of having to try and spin the engine round in circles every few moments (as Peter Cockerton will, I am sure, concur).
And in the event of you having to motor several miles to get back in, against the tide, as the wind is dropping as quickly as the sun is in the evening sky.

I have had some experience with the type of engine that you have, it was sold very quickly! - The only saving grace I would say is that it is 2 stroke. Makes it easier to sell!

I would say bite the bullet and get a good solid dependable engine with both integral and external fuel supplies - and, of course, two selectable gears!


Andy - BR12 'Psalter' with a 5 hp Tohatsu with 2 gears!

Llafurio

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Re: Plastic well flaps fouling outboard motor
« Reply #3 on: 19 Aug 2012, 08:22 »
Jonathan, or anyone,
it so happens I have one brandnew unused Mariner 5 left from my own recent BRe project. I would be happy to sell that for €800.00 / GBP 630.00.

I will be going from Fishguard to Harwich on the 29th, and could meet anywhere en route.
C.

 
Ex various Drascombes, ex SeaRaider (WE) #1 "Craic", ex BR20 (GRE) "Llafurio", ex BR20 (GRP) "Tipsy", currently BRE (modified for open sea passages) "Homer", Drascombe Drifter "27" and Drascombe Drifter No. 31 "Amity". Homeport: Rossdohan

Jonathan Stuart

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Re: Plastic well flaps fouling outboard motor
« Reply #4 on: 19 Aug 2012, 09:14 »
Yes, cutting the transom would fix the issue but I'm not sure I am ready to do that yet to make this particular engine fit!

Personally I find the 3.3hp does me fine - it pushes the BRe loaded with family at just under 5 knots and will push in to tide so it works for our sailing but Andy makes some very valid points and most of all the ability to reverse is essential.

If the plastic flaps prevent engines from spinning 180 degrees  - has anyone been able to do this? - then a replacement with reverse is required.

Claus - I will think about your engine while I look at my options, but I'm away until the 30th so can't do anything just yet.
Jonathan

Ex - BayCruiser 26 #11 "Bagpuss"
Ex - BayRaider Expedition #3 "Mallory"

Julian Swindell

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Re: Plastic well flaps fouling outboard motor
« Reply #5 on: 20 Aug 2012, 14:58 »
I used the Honda 2.3HP initially on my Baycruiser. It could be swivelled 180 degrees in the well, but I never really got the hang of it in close quarters. I used it going to the Isle of Wight and back from Poole, and it was fine in the open sea. Where it really struggled was against the full Poole Harbour Entrance ebb tide, where we just kept our position for half an hour, with little or no progress. Like others have said, I decided I needed more power to be happy getting back to port, so I went for the Tohatsu 6HP which was the biggest that would fit the well. This has pushed us through everything, even the full flood tide through Hurst Narrows between the Isle of Wight and Hurst Point. It took over an hour to get through and I wouldn't recommend it, but we didn't have time to wait for the tide to change.
Julian Swindell
BayCruiser 20 Daisy Grace
http://jegsboat.wordpress.com/
Guillemot building blog
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Graham W

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Re: Plastic well flaps fouling outboard motor
« Reply #6 on: 21 Aug 2012, 07:19 »
I moved from a 2.5hp Suzuki to a 6hp Mariner for the same reasons as Julian, plus the added security of a large external fuel tank and the convenience of a gear level on front of the engine rather than tucked away down the side.  Mine has a Sail Power high thrust prop which is more suited to dispacement boats like ours.
Graham
Gunter-rigged GRP BR20 #59 Turaco III

Julian Swindell

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Re: Plastic well flaps fouling outboard motor
« Reply #7 on: 21 Aug 2012, 09:19 »
I envy your front mounted gear lever. Mine must be the previous model which has the lever on the side. It is surprisingly difficult to get at. I can't just change gear by feel, I have to bend down to look at it, usually when I really don't want to take my eyes off what I am approaching. BUt I don't think an upgrade is possible. :(
Julian Swindell
BayCruiser 20 Daisy Grace
http://jegsboat.wordpress.com/
Guillemot building blog
https://jegsguillemot.wordpress.com/

Jonathan Stuart

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Re: Plastic well flaps fouling outboard motor
« Reply #8 on: 21 Aug 2012, 13:38 »
Based on the replies above, another forum topic about the Suzuki 2.5 o/b and other communications with Claus and Graham, I think the following sums up fitting an outboard to the BR/BRe:

1. Only the Honda 2.3 and Suzuki 2.5 outboards will rotate 360 degrees in the outboard well. These OBs have straight shafts without the "wings" (on Mariners, etc) that hit the plastic lamellae.

2. The Honda fits without modification but the Suzuki needs a small modification on the tilt support otherwise the cavitation plate hits the S/S rudder dogleg.

3. The alternative is to get a larger outboard that has reverse gear (which may be preferred anyway for the additional power).

4. Of the current four strokes in the 4hp-6hp size (the smallest that have reverse gear) some modifications may be needed to fit the BR. In particular, the up/down haul lines may need moving to be parallel with the tiller rather than underneath it and adjustments may be required to allow the outboard to tilt fully.

Just wanted to post this in case anyone has a similar question in future.
Jonathan

Ex - BayCruiser 26 #11 "Bagpuss"
Ex - BayRaider Expedition #3 "Mallory"

Graham W

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Re: Plastic well flaps fouling outboard motor
« Reply #9 on: 21 Aug 2012, 18:24 »
Of the current four strokes in the 4hp-6hp size (the smallest that have reverse gear) some modifications may be needed to fit the BR. In particular, the up/down haul lines may need moving to be parallel with the tiller rather than underneath it and adjustments may be required to allow the outboard to tilt fully.
Wooden wedges behind the outboard bracket, hard against the back of the transom, tilt my Mariner 6hp shaft further forwards, which then allows its tilt mechanism to engage without further adjustment.  The shaft is then adjusted to the upright position when untilted by moving the dropnose pin up one hole.  I haven't tried it but this might work for the little Suzuki too.
Graham
Gunter-rigged GRP BR20 #59 Turaco III

Rob Waller

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Re: Plastic well flaps fouling outboard motor
« Reply #10 on: 21 Aug 2012, 19:06 »
Thanks for the useful summary, Jonathan. I hadn't noticed the post about the up/downhaul lines, but I'm about to add a couple of fairleads to keep the downhaul line from sagging below the tiller, as my rudder keeps popping up, and I've wondered whether to blame the outboard. It is also a little over sensitive to the boat rolling in mobo wash, so I've discovered you can adjust the cam in the auto release cleat - about to try that. I've also added a starter rope handle to the downhaul to make it easier to pull it back down quickly with one hand.

In response to Julian, my 4hp Yamaha has the gear lever on the left, but it is a large chunky lever that's easy to see and reach. It also has plenty of power, although you can get 5 or 6 HP variants of identical size and weight.

Jonathan Stuart

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Re: Plastic well flaps fouling outboard motor
« Reply #11 on: 21 Aug 2012, 20:53 »
It was a post of Graham's on a separate topic that talked about moving the up/downhaul lines. It includes pictures and is well worth reading. Link is:

http://www.swallowyachtsassociation.org/smf/index.php/topic,248.msg3616.html#msg3616

I like your idea of a starter handle to the downhaul rope...raising and lowering the rudder always makes me think that I spend too much time in front of a laptop and too little doing physical work!
Jonathan

Ex - BayCruiser 26 #11 "Bagpuss"
Ex - BayRaider Expedition #3 "Mallory"

Peter Cockerton

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Re: Plastic well flaps fouling outboard motor
« Reply #12 on: 22 Aug 2012, 12:29 »
Jonathan, or anyone,
it so happens I have one brandnew unused Mariner 5 left from my own recent BRe project. I would be happy to sell that for €800.00 / GBP 630.00.

I will be going from Fishguard to Harwich on the 29th, and could meet anywhere en route.
C.

Claus

I could well be interested in your outboard, i live in Coventry which i'm sure we could find a suitable meeting point. I want to use it on my Bayraider is that ok, having been out with Andy Dingle recently and witnessing the close quarter maonouvering required i think having a  reverse gear option could be handy without having to rotate my Honda 2.3.

Please email me direct on petercsailing"at"virginmedia.com to continue if it's still for sale.

Thanks
Bayraider 20 mk2
Larger jib set on bowsprit with AeroLuff spar
USA rig
Carbon Fibre main boom with sail stack pack
Epropulsion Spirit Plus Outboard

Llafurio

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Re: Plastic well flaps fouling outboard motor
« Reply #13 on: 22 Aug 2012, 13:02 »
Hi Peter,
delighted. First come, first served.
I will start from Fishguard at 1 pm and go via M4 - M25 - A12 to Harwich. Cannot deviate much due to time constraints.
 
Will be in touch privately.
C.
Ex various Drascombes, ex SeaRaider (WE) #1 "Craic", ex BR20 (GRE) "Llafurio", ex BR20 (GRP) "Tipsy", currently BRE (modified for open sea passages) "Homer", Drascombe Drifter "27" and Drascombe Drifter No. 31 "Amity". Homeport: Rossdohan