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Michael Rogers

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Information about junk rig
« on: 01 Nov 2012, 14:02 »
This has come up (again) because of interest expressed by Tony, and I know of some others, following my home build post about my Trouper 12 and the success of her JR. On that thread I suggested some useful contacts. I've since given some thought to what other info is available, and I thought a new topic under Technical might be the most appropriate way to let anyone who is interested have it. I'll try to be brief.

'Practical Junk Rig' (PJR) by Hasler and McCleod. This is a classic, and incidentally (never mind the content) one of the best written books of its kind that I know. Cross-referencing in the text and a very comprehensive index make it easy to use as a dip-in reference book. It is, however, becoming very dated, and relatively recent and quite dramatic advances in, for example, sail design have happened since even the latest edition which had a small 'updating' appendix. I believe the Junk Rig Association (JRA) are planning a new multi-author book.

Some of the JRA website is members only, but there is some really useful stuff 'in the public domain' (to use their rather quaint language). On the home page there is a menu-thingy on the left: click on 'Junk Info', this brings up 'Public Domain info by' and two names, Arne Kverneland and Slieve McGalliard. Both are well worth reading. Herewith a recommended short list of each -

Arne Kvereneland is Norwegian, and a pioneer of cambered panel sails, which he makes himself (there is also another Norwegian JR sailmaker whose details I could dig out on request). Arne's sails are bright royal blue , and there are now about six JR yachts with blue sails in Norwegian waters: the JRA has a Norwegian rally every now and again around these boats. Of his online writings, I recommend -
                'Junk rig for beginners' - excellent starter
                'Variations of the Pilmer sheeting' - sheeting and JR can get complicated (see PJR!), but
                 needn't be. Out of interest, I went to this article to sheet my Trouper. I used the upper sheet 
                 span from Fig 2 and the lower span from Fig 3. The resulting sheet seems to work very well.
                'Peaking up the junk sail'. This is interesting, in that Arne admits he has been very slow to
                realise its importance in terms of getting a cambered panel sail to set properly without 'stress'
                in the rig (one of the virtues of JR is how diffuse the stresses are) and creases across the
                panels. Robin Blain and Chris Scanes are very hot on this peaking up, and both my JR sails
                have set like bespoke suits, with no creases and (perish the thought) no need to use 'Hong
                Kong parrels' (Arne's writings explain what those are - to be avoided like the plague).

Slieve McGalliard. His yacht, 'Poppy', probably has the most powerful JR yet devised. Slieve appears to be in the process of writing a book (or contributing to the new JRA tome?), and his 'public domain' writing appears to be drafts of bits of this. ('C and SJ' appears to stand for 'Cambered Panel and Split Junk Rig') For starters, try -
                'C and SJ p1 - 22'
                'C and SJ Chap 11 rigging'
                'Copy of article from AYRS Catalyst no 37'. Among other things, this gives an account of how
                 Poppy startled Cowes by her performance in the Round-the-Island Race in 2008.

Going through all this stuff brought home to me that, without realising or seeking it, I have been doing a bit of pioneering in respect of JR, both in using cambered panel sails and applying JR to dinghies. Arne Kverneland has been using and advocating cambered panels since the mid nineties. Slieve McGalliard started on it (with a different approach to sail design) in 2008, which is also when Chris Scanes started making cambered panel JR sails commercially. I had my eureka moment about JR (in a Norwegian fjord, with absolutely no connection whatsoever with Arne!) in July 2008, and the sail Chris made for me in early 2009, for Cadenza (my Storm Petrel), must have been among the first few he made with cambered panels.

That's it - a bit lengthy, sorry. I'll try to get some photos of rig details and post them. Otherwise I've said enough, but if anyone has questions I'll do my best to help further.

Michael
                       

Tony

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Re: Information about junk rig
« Reply #1 on: 03 Nov 2012, 00:12 »
Hi, Michael.

Thanks for all that.
Googling Arne Kvereneland as we speak !

Roll on with the photos and - fancy this for a killer argument - When your Trouper 12 is ready how about we borrow a lug and/or a fore and aft rigged version(s) from Matt (if he has one spare!) and try a few time trials around a triangular course. The results might raise a few eyebrows!

Michael Rogers

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Re: Information about junk rig
« Reply #2 on: 03 Nov 2012, 17:34 »
(I'm 'angry' - see icon - because I had half-written this, tried to divert, came back and lost wot I had writ: grrr. So if this comes out jumbled, that's why)

It might indeed, although I believe Matt subscribes to his Dad's view that the lug-rigged Trouper at least is under-canvassed. I reminded myself recently that I've increased the sail area from 59 (lug) to 80 sq ft - quite a hike, but when I told Matt he assured me that 'she can carry it': which she can, triumphantly.

Actually, Tony, the 'challenge' you suggest is unlikely because Troupers are thin on the water. Indeed, before I ordered my kit I asked Matt cheerily whether I could come down for a Trouper sail, and he had to hasten to let me know that I couldn't because there wasn't one chez Swallowboats: as far as I know that's still the case. So the buy and the build were somewhat 'pig in a poke'-ish. Turned out well!

Talking of challenges, I dip in and out of a forum on the HBBR website, and a while back I was doing my modest  'junk rig is the best thing since (and long before) square rig went out of favour' spiel, in the course of which I stated that a JR dinghy would sail closer to the wind (NB not sail faster) than a modern lug sail, specifically that on a Lymington scow. Most of the reaction was, appropriately, good humoured condescension, but one individual (who emerged as the national-Lymington-scow-champion-bar-one-point) told me in no uncertain terms to stop going on (and I may have been, a bit - comes from being an enthusiast) about things I knew nothing about (I thought that was a bit harsh): and challenged me to bring my junk rig boat to Keyhaven and have rings sailed round it by a scow or two. So the 'Keyhaven challenge' remains open, and I wouldn't be at all afraid of the result if/when I take Cavatina down (she wasn't even built when I was infuriating this bloke). Actually I've sailed a Lymington scow - great little boats - in Poole Harbour, and used to sail a Heron out of Keyhaven.

As to your mention of photos (which makes me come over all nervous, for reasons I've explained ad nauseam), the forecast for here on Monday is 'sunny', so I plan to have a go then.

¿

Tony

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Re: Information about junk rig
« Reply #3 on: 05 Nov 2012, 02:30 »
Hi, Michael.

I don't really understand why there are so few Trouper 12s about. It's a very good looking boat with more character to the inch than most.  Is it the name? (More Army than Andrew? ) How does the price compare with Tideway 12s and the Lymington boats?   (Why did they call it a scow, I wonder, when it ain't one. )  Or, perhaps I should ask about the price difference between the Trouper and other Swallow boats?  A puzzle!
I wonder if a Trouper 14 or 16 (once promised, or at least, hinted at, on the Swallow Boats old web site) wouldn't be more attractive, especially if RCD “C”.  I'm not sure that being car top-able is much of a selling point these days.
Perhaps your Junk rig will give Troupers a new lease of life, especially if you CAN sail rings around the opposition with your cambered panels! At 80sq ft you have about as much sail area as the Scow's mainsail and with your flat bottomed hull at 52 kg you are about half their weight.  I don't think I've ever seen a Junk up on the plane before!

BTW  Solve  your “ Forum reply box time-out blues” by writing your posts in “Word” or some other word processor then copy and paste into the forum.  You also then have a copy of all your posts for you memoirs – or to mount your defense in case of  libel actions!

Michael Rogers

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Re: Information about junk rig
« Reply #4 on: 05 Nov 2012, 17:43 »
Hi Tony

No, I don't understand the dearth of Troupers either. From what I've gathered from a few conversations with Matt over a period of time (and I apologise to him if I'm mis-representing him in any way), the car-topping thing was an attempt at a niche market which turned out to be a mistake, and Swallowboats shortly afterwards got into the water ballast business in other designs which have been a huge commercial success (relatively speaking): and the poor little Trouper drifted quietly up a backwater and stayed there. I personally think car-topping a boat that size is daft, but one valuable effect of that original design spec requirement is the light weight (I think my 'mods' and extra glass-sheathing etc may have added a few kilos). I haven't looked at the Swallowboats Ltd website recently, but the old publicity for the Trouper was never updated and...

To illustrate what I mean, when I expressed an interest in the Trouper a while back Matt made a fairly half-hearted attempt to interest me in prototyping a BC14, complete with water ballast! I declined, because one of the prime requirements for my new boat was simplicity (another was not to have to wait - um, probably quite a long time - for the design, never mind the kit: I know and respect what a busy man Matt is). I just thought then, and know for certain now, that the boat for me is the Trouper. If my enthusiasm helps to revive it even a bit, I will be delighted. I know at least one further kit is on order (Nothing to do with me, I hasten to add). I wonder (and I believe Matt does too) whether a more adventurous and powerful rig, at least than the original lug sail, would help, and it's absolutely clear that the super hull - pretty, and wonderfully stable - could take it. Junk rig is something else - it's probably not for everyone, although I hope I can demonstrate how fairly simple and super-effective it can be. AND - it had never occurred to me before - I really fancy having the first plane-able junk!!

The sun did shine this morning, and I managed some winter-sunshine photos which I will attempt to put on this thread (with some expert help) and describe - in due course, in the fullness of time, at the appropriate juncture, as Sir Humphrey would have said.

Thanks for the computer tip - I might even try it.

Michael

Michael Rogers

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Re: Information about junk rig
« Reply #5 on: 05 Nov 2012, 21:51 »
Right, here we go - and if this all goes pear shape.......As I'm not clear what I'm doing, I'd better do it by stages.

Pic 1 Please note how the sail bundle (that's the boom, yard, all five battens and the sail) fits snugly and neatly within the cockpit, for 'parking' and towing. The CF mast, which is 3 ft longer than the hull, rests on a short length of CF tube about 10 mm greater in diam than the mast (this has another function which I'll come back to). For towing (ie when the trolley is on the road base, not in picture), there is a taller mast support on the road base so that the mast doesn't foul the back of the tow car.

Pic 2 gives a general view: the mast and height of the sail is a bit foreshortened by the camera angle. The yard is slung from its mid-point. What I haven't shown clearly in these pics is a) that the halyard is two-part - not strictly necessary for this sail, but means I can hoist easily with one hand, while ensuring the hoist goes up without lines snagging with the other: b) that the yard hauling parrel is attached to the yard about 15 ins above the sling point, which gives it a 'peaking up' effect as well as keeping the yard close to the mast.
The topping lift is double, ie down each side of the sail, running freely under the boom. It starts at the mast head on the port side, passes down and under the boom, up to the mast head on the starboard side, through a small block and down to the deck at the mast foot. (Thanks to Tony, way back, for that arrangement.) All the battens except the top one are sheeted: that way the shape of the leach is under complete control. The 4th batten is longer than the others so that the upper sheet spans don't foul the leach when tacking or gybing.
Note the Rogers 'patent' batten parrels keeping the bottom three battens close to the mast: of which more later. (I would patent them except that I've had to accept that the potential market for batten parrels on junk rigged dinghies is not big enough to be commercially viable.)

Pic 3. The red line top to bottom is the yard hauling parrel.
The blue line starting on the yard, looping twice round the mast and through blocks and then passing to the mast foot, is the luff hauling parrel (LHP): this has several important functions. a) Its attachment to the yard tends to pull the throat end of the yard down, complementing the peaking up action of the yard hauling parrel (see Pic 2 and above). Adjustment of these two lines ensures that the yard remains at its optimal angle, which eliminates diagonal creases in the sail panels (Arne Kverneland, eat your heart out - see his paper on 'Peaking up the junk sail'). b) The LHP also acts as batten parrels for the top two battens.
Robin Blain and Chris Scanes introduced the attachment of the YHP well above the sling point (see Pic 2 and above), which was an innovation (the traditional attachment is at the sling point, ie thge half way point along the yard). With Chris's sails this results in perfect setting.
In some junk rigs the luff hauling parrel is brought further down the mast, involving (and parreling) more of the battens: or it is subdivided into upper and lower parts. I haven't found this necessary, and have my 'patent' parrels on the lowest three battens.

I'll press the 'post' thingy and see what happens. There's more if it's of interest (but I do appreciate I am going on rather).

Michael

Julian Swindell

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Re: Information about junk rig
« Reply #6 on: 07 Nov 2012, 15:36 »
Have you seen the Junk Rig Baycruiser on Swallowboats Facebook page? All very interesting grist to the mill.
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.526756774003753.124891.391200070892758&type=1
Julian Swindell
BayCruiser 20 Daisy Grace
http://jegsboat.wordpress.com/
Guillemot building blog
https://jegsguillemot.wordpress.com/

Michael Rogers

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Re: Information about junk rig
« Reply #7 on: 07 Nov 2012, 19:35 »
Hi Julian

Thanks for the link. No, I hadn't seen it, but I knew about Gigi, and had I been able to get to the JRA rally at Caernarfon (in Sept - couldn't make it) I would have had a sail in her. Because that's my JR guru Robin Blain, who has been so generous with his time and expertise in helping me to progress my JR-for-dinghies ideas. He's VERY pleased with Gigi. Incidentally, his sail is different from mine, in that the camber is produced across the whole sail using battens with joints in them to make them sort of bendy in a planned way. It's the other (than cambered panels and straight battens) way currently being used to improve on a flat sail with rigid battens, which is the 'traditional' sail (relatively poor to windward).

Michael

Tony

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Re: Information about junk rig
« Reply #8 on: 08 Nov 2012, 00:06 »
Hi, Michael.

Nice looking boat, that, I suppose.

The sail's not bad, either... (grudging admiration)....

Oh! Alright. It actually looks B****y fantastic!

Please DO post more pictures - any chance of some video footage of the boat in action?

How do the yard and luff hauling parrels work?
Is there a down haul?
If you let go of the sheets on a dead run will the sail "weathercock" around the mast?
Can you drop the sail into the lazy jacks on ANY point of sail?
With Bn sails and even balanced lug sails like mine,the received wisdom is that to go to windward you need the sail as flat as you can get it. (Certainly a loose luff kills you stone dead in the water) How come Junk rig works better with built-in camber? Have I been swigging my halyards tight and using a purchace on my outhaul to no avail?
There's a lot of sticks and string up that mast, not to mention blocks. Is weight an issue?

Michael Rogers

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Re: Information about junk rig
« Reply #9 on: 08 Nov 2012, 12:25 »
That's some list of questions, Tony! But I did invite them.

Yes, I'll try to do some more pics, including (if I can) how the yard and luff parrels work. Action shots etc will have to wait until next season. Video? - good grief! The other thing I must do is to get my youngest to show me (again!) how to scan documents into the computer so that I can do some diagrams.

As this attempt to explain proceeds, I am very aware that it would be MUCH easier to demonstrate than it is to describe. I'll do my best...

Your other queries -

Down haul - under full sail, no down haul. I have a tack line which tethers the boom down, and the luff is tensioned against the up-pull of the halyard. When I reef, there is a downhaul for each of the bottom three battens: one on its own for the first batten, and a second one which cleverly does for both the second and third battens (NB any mentions of cleverness here and hereinafter refer to the innate cunning of the rig (down to the Chinese, essentially), not to yours truly). These tension the reefed panels downwards  against the upward pull of the halyard.

If you let go of the sheet on a dead run, the sail would try to lie fore-and-aft and weather cock 'the wrong way round' (ie 180 degrees  round from 'normal'). I think you would wring the masthead, halyard etc in the process. For this to happen, the sheet would have to unreeve itself through at least some of the blocks in the sheeting system or be bloomin' long! - it's long enough already. There are, of course, no shrouds to get in the way. It is, incidentally, acceptable to sail by the lee with junk rig, and gybing is less fraught - the sail somehow behaves with much more decorum. There is a (largely theoretical) potential catastrophe in JR sailing called 'fan-up'. This can occur when gybing in very strong winds, if the boom and lower battens try to go one way and the upper battens the other. There are some good drawings of this in 'Practical Junk Rig'. It could only happen if the clew can rise up a long way (boom up to 45% or more), and can be prevented by fitting a simple line below the boom, like a kicking strap but kept a bit slack. (Memo to self - fit one!!) Actually, fan-up can only occur anyway if one is sailing in 'adventurous' weather, say F6+.

In theory you could drop the sails down into the lazy jacks on any point of sail. There would be resistance from the lazy jack system itself, particularly on the lee side of the sail, and bear in mind that the commonest reason for dropping the sail, apart from furling, is to reef when, by definition, the wind is getting up. Best is to come up into the wind to reef (which is very quick anyway), but it's usually feasible to reef close hauled.

Cambers etc. This is territory where I accept that it is so because People Who Know tell me it is. My comments will probably get a B- at very best. The sail is like an aircraft wing on end, so that instead of vertical lift you get horizontal lift which is translated into forward motion by Wonderful Geometry which I scarcely understand. To get lift, you need an aerofoil shape, hence the need for camber. Slieve McGalliard talks about an optimum of somewhere around 15% camber: I take that to mean the max distance away from a straight line expressed as a percentage of the length of the aerofoil, so that's quite a lot. (There's also the vexed question of the point along the aerofoil at which this max camber should be). I think that one of the reasons a cambered panel battened sail is a good idea is that you have a stack of aerofoils, all under pretty close control because the back ends of the aerofoils, collectively the leach, are kept in line to the wind by the sheeting: thus they all work reasonably effectively. Contrast that with either a gaff or even bermudan sail, where the higher up the sail, and away from the direct control of the boom/sheet, the more the shape and direction of the aerofoil is different from the 'optimum' set in the lowest bit of the sail.
With immense and genuine respect, Tony, I'm not sure that received wisdom is quite as you describe, and if it is it partly reflects the inherent inefficiency of traditional sails. The flatter the luff, the closer you can get to the wind before the luff stalls, so in that sense you will sail closer, but the aerofoil behind that flat luff may not be very efficient in terms of (horizontal) lift. I think there is also some confusion, in strong wind situations, between on-wind efficiency on the one hand and being able to stall the sail easily (ie luff up) to avoid heeling on the other. In the process of the latter you sail closer, and if the wind is strong you may not be aware of the extent to which aerofoil efficiency is reduced - and it may not matter in the sense that the stronger wind 'gets you there' anyway.
I strongly suspect that most of what I have said is b*********cks, and if anyone wishes to SHOOT ME DOWN IN FLAMES (metaphorically speaking) with undiluted science, please feel free to do so.

Weight aloft - I don't think it need be an issue, with aluminium battens in particular. I think quite a lot
of modern JR yachts use aluminium for the yard as well. I've gone for CF mast for ease of stepping /unstepping and because I am getting doddery-er. I note that Robin Blain has done the same for his JR BC20. With the exception of the halyard and sheet which need to be normally chunky, all the running rigging can be quite lightweight because it is relatively unstressed. Fine dyneema is handy (eg for sheet spans). Most blocks can be correspondingly small, and I doubt whether there are many more of them than with other rigs. In a rig of the size of mine, small s/s thimbles can be used instead of blocks, especially making use of the inherent slippiness of dyneema (eg sheet spans again). So overall, no I don't think weight is a problem. It certainly isn't on my boat. However, for bigger than my tiddly rig, you should consult Robin Blain.

It may not have occurred to you, Tony, that your egging me on about all this JR stuff is helping me towards achieving 'hero' status on this forum. What an incentive! What an impending honour, to join such an elite! Almost makes up for my receding Olympic medal dreams.

Michael

Michael Rogers

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Re: Information about junk rig
« Reply #10 on: 14 Nov 2012, 13:58 »
Next installment (one more to come after this - I think!).

Tony asked about the yard hauling parrel (YHP) and luff hauling parrel (LHP). Pics 4 and 5 may help.

In Pic 4 the sail is NOT fully hoisted. Although it doesn’t look like it, the sling point for the yard is exactly half way along the yard. The YHP starts from the becket (or equivalent) on a smallish block attached to the yard about 12 ins above the sling point, passes round the mast (and all three components of the halyard), back through the block on the yard and down to the deck. Hauling it does two things - 1) it pulls the yard into the mast and keeps it there; 2) because of its point of action on the yard, it pulls the top of the sail upwards and forwards (‘peaking up’).

The LHP starts near the lower (throat) end of the yard, and passes twice round the mast and through small blocks near the luff ends of the upper two battens before going down to the deck. Hauling it does three things - 1) it pulls the lower end of the yard down, complementing the ‘peaking up’ action of the YHP; 2) it pulls the luff of the sail aft; 3) it acts as batten parrels for the top two battens, keeping them close to the mast.

The LHP could be wound right down the mast, acting as batten parrels for all the battens. Some bigger JRs do this and, because of the increased friction involved, the LHP is then often divided into upper and lower sections which pass separately down to the deck. However, at least on my small rig, if the ‘peaking up’ is properly organised by balance between the YHP and LHP, the sail hangs from the yard in such a way that there are no diagonal creases in the sail panels (a sign of ‘stress’), and I can flaunt my patent adjustable batten parrels (see pic 3), which only have to keep the luff ends of the lower three battens against the mast. In Pic 5 the sail IS fully hoisted. Neither of the two parrels is under much tension, illustrating the unstressed nature of the whole rig - no shrouds or stays, and only the halyard and the sheet worked at all hard. Even the boat is relaxed!

Pic 6 shows how the running lines are led from the mast foot to camcleats under the dagger board support beam, where they are to hand for (eg) reefing. (Incidentally, one of the many plus features of the Trouper is how far forward the dagger board is, leaving a wondrously uncluttered cockpit). Pic 6 also shows the CF collar at the partners, through which the mast is stepped and unstepped. This is shaped to act as a mast support when the boat is unrigged on its launching trolley, but it has an even more important function. When the sail is dropped, the loops of the YHP and LHP round the mast drop round this collar, and remain there when the mast is unstepped. Next time the mast is stepped through the collar, those loops are in position round the mast as the sail is hoisted. After a fair amount of thought and practice, I reckon rigging my boat is not much more complicated or time-consuming than gunter or bermudan (have to hand it to lug for simplicity).

‘Enough, no more, ‘tis not so sweet now as it was before’.  Thanks for your forbearance.

Michael

Michael Rogers

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Re: Information about junk rig
« Reply #11 on: 18 Nov 2012, 22:26 »
AN APOLOGY. Spelling is not usually a problem, so it is galling to have to apologise for having assumed that the after edge of a sail is spelt like one of the effects of acid rain, rather than like a blood-sucking nematode. I have consulted oracles, and worm-like it apparently is. Sorry, folks: should have checked before this. I will amend my ways. (This gets worse - is it ‘spelt’ or ‘spelled’, or can it be either - or eether?)

I’ve got three more photos.

Sheeting arrangements for JR are much debated and potentially quite complicated (see ‘Practical Junk Rig’ (PJR)). What is required is control by one sheet of the boom and all but one of the battens (usually), and in such a way that the sail maintains an overall shape which enhances the sail’s performance, and without ‘twist’ - a term used by JRers to indicate that one or more of the batten ends is out of line with the rest, spoiling a smoothly curved leech.

In my JR for Cadenza (my Storm Petrel), I took advice and have a system which works quite well, but involves three sheet spans (these are the thinner lines which link two or more batten ends), a triple stand-up block on the stern and the odd nautical mile of expensive 8 mm line for the sheet. For Cavatina (my Trouper), having researched further, I followed Arne Kverneland’s advice as described in his paper ‘Variations of the Pilmer Sheeting’ (see JRA website: Pilmer, by the way, is a ‘classic’ JR yacht described in PJR). I have used a two-sheet-span arrangement: the upper span, as shown in Fig 2 of that paper, controls three battens, and the lower span, shown in Fig 3, controls the bottom batten and the boom. (The top batten is left unsheeted.)This system uses quite a bit less ‘large string’ than three-spans-plus-a-triple-block and (bearing in mind that I have so far only been able to sail Cavatina three times) seems to work exceptionally well, as illustrated in Photo 8. This is an edge-on view of the leech of Cavatina’s sail with some wind trying to fill the sail, and it does give some idea of how the spans are organised. Note, above all, the untwisted shape of the leech: even the unsheeted top batten, which is just visible, falls into line - literally. The clever bit is that this degree of control of the sail, right up to the top of the leech, applies on all points of sailing. No wonder she sails well.

There is a small block with becket on the lower span, and a small block bolted to a large one (making a rather unequal sister-block) on the upper span: all other ‘sheaves’ are s/s thimbles. The spans themselves are 3 mm dyneema (strong and slippery.). The upper- most sheeted batten is extended beyond the leech so that the top span does not get caught on the lower batten-ends when tacking and - especially - gybing. This works.

The sheet itself (colour co-ordinated only because the green stuff happened to be on special offer) starts with a thimble in the end shackled to the lower sheet span block; it passes down through the double block in the shallow well in the after deck (see Photo 9), from there up to the upper sheet span block, and back down and through the second sheave of the double block. The well is open forwards below deck level, enabling the free end of the sheet to pass forward through a large bush in the lower edge of the coaming, emerging into the cockpit just above the tiller (which, in the Trouper, is shipped through a tiller port in the transom). This arrangement proves to be as handy as I had hoped.

Finally, Photo 7 (apologies for the wrong order) shows the port side of the foot of the mast - the opposite side to all the other pics because almost all the running lines are on the (see ‘Practical Junk Rig’ (PJR) for pages of geometry and maths on the subject, if such things tickle your fancy: they leave me bemused) starboard side of the sail. You can just see the tack line (black against the black CF mast), which holds the boom down so that the luff can be tensioned by the upward pull of the halyard. The yellow line is the bottom batten downhaul, the red line downhauls for both the second and third battens: these only come into play when reefing. The thicker white rope is the halyard, the red one beyond it is the yard hauling parrel.

The white webbing is the very bottom of the boom lift, which isn’t well illustrated and which I’ll try to describe. A line comes down from the masthead on the port side of the sail to about the level of the bottom batten; it has a carbine clip on its end. There is an approx 3 ft length of webbing with a D ring sewn securely onto each end. One ring is clipped onto the descending line; the webbing is passed round the mast below the boom as shown, and back up to the carbine clip which secures the other D ring. There is thus a loop of webbing suspended from the masthead on the port side, passing round the mast below the sail: the whole lift is adjusted to be slightly slack so that it doesn’t interfere with the curve of the sail when on the starboard tack. Its function under full sail is to act as a boom parrel, keeping the boom close enough to the mast.

It is also essential for reefing. However many battens are dropped for the reef (my rig can cater for three), the tack end of the sail bundle (= boom, battens, and reefed sail panels) is caught up between the boom lift and the mast: otherwise it would sag to the deck. The clew end of the sail bundle is caught by the topping lifts: in a larger rig than mine, more elaborate lazy jacks might be needed to do this. At the tack, down-pull is provided by the batten downhauls, against which the halyard can be used to tauten the luff.

That’s QUITE enough of that (I can almost hear audible sighs of relief over the internet ether). Sorry this has been a monologue: I hope it is of interest to at least some, and even useful to a few. Happy to take questions, otherwise I’ll shut up - I promise.

Michael   (Trouper 12 Cavatina)

Tony

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Re: Information about junk rig
« Reply #12 on: 21 Nov 2012, 17:48 »
Hi, Michael.

I hate to be pedantic ....(A lie. I absolutely LOVE to be pedantic!) ..but leeches are members of the phylum Annelida,  or segmented worms,  and most definitely not nematodes, who wouldn’t know a segment from their elbow. If they had one, which they don’t.   

Taxonomical challenges apart, please keep the stuff on junk rig coming – any chance of a line drawing of the entire main sheeting arrangement, for example? It’s different to the other methods I’ve looked at.  (Or do I have to cough up for a subscription to the JRA to find Mr Pilmer?)

Any video of “Cavatina” on the water yet?

Cheers!
Tony

Michael Rogers

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Re: Information about junk rig
« Reply #13 on: 21 Nov 2012, 19:06 »
Hi Tony

I am miffed to be caught out in matters taxonomical, but you are, of course, correct (grrrr).

I will (I promise) at least try to master my printer/scanner to an extent which will let me get a drawing of the sheeting system I used onto the forum. However - can I just repeat that you don't need to roll both trouser legs up (both - to differentiate from another less well known organisation) and join the JRA to get to grips with JR sheeting. JRA website -- menu on the left of home page -- Junk info -- Arne Kverneland's contributions -- 'Variations on Pilmer sheeting' (I've done that from memory but it should work).

Video - are you hassling me? Next season, if I can find someone with the necessary equipment /knowhow, will be the earliest. Unless we have some brilliant winter weather, which will give me a chance to use my immersion suit and hold forth (again) about its advantages over a wet- or dry-suit. Judging by the current weather forecast, that seems a remote possibility.

Enjoy your daytime TV (what do you watch?)

Michael

Kerrybobs

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Re: Information about junk rig
« Reply #14 on: 02 Dec 2012, 21:43 »
Hi Michael

Just to let you know that I have been following your posts with interest and doing my homework on the JRA website.

The latest from Matt is that my T12 kit will be ready for delivery in the next couple of weeks, but due to various commitments I'm not sure quite when I will get it started.

Having said that I am in possession of a video camera and should be able to get away for a day's filming, for your TV debut, if required.

Cheers
Mark