Author Topic: Touching up the woodwork  (Read 10095 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Rob Waller

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 43
Touching up the woodwork
« on: 06 Feb 2013, 23:56 »
Perhaps there's an existing thread on this somewhere, but I can't find one. What do people recommend to touch up the varnish on the woodwork? After just one season on a pontoon, my fenders have created worn patches on the gunwale (duct tape didn't really help). Is it wood stain or varnish?

I've just found these stainless steel protectors, and have ordered them - I'll report back on whether they fit: http://www.wearandtearpads.com/

By the way, they are £6.95 from the manufacturers but £12.95 from Force4.

Julian Swindell

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 682
Re: Touching up the woodwork
« Reply #1 on: 07 Feb 2013, 10:00 »
Are you varnished or stained? I use Sikens Filter 7 which is easy to touch up and pretty tough in the first place. But it is not shiny, if that is what you want.
Julian Swindell
BayCruiser 20 Daisy Grace
http://jegsboat.wordpress.com/
Guillemot building blog
https://jegsguillemot.wordpress.com/

Graham W

  • Global Moderator
  • Demigod
  • *****
  • Posts: 2501
Re: Touching up the woodwork
« Reply #2 on: 07 Feb 2013, 15:20 »
The stuff that Julian recommends is standard on BayRaiders - or at least it was on mine.  http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sikkens-Translucent-Woodstain-Mahogany-SIKCF7PM1L/dp/B003Y3XH3W

There was a thread on this http://www.swallowyachtsassociation.org/smf/index.php/topic,533.msg3146.html#msg3146
Graham
Gunter-rigged GRP BR20 #59 Turaco III

Julian Swindell

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 682
Re: Touching up the woodwork
« Reply #3 on: 07 Feb 2013, 21:32 »
Of course the simple answer if you want a strong anchoring point is to get a Baycruiser! ;D
Julian Swindell
BayCruiser 20 Daisy Grace
http://jegsboat.wordpress.com/
Guillemot building blog
https://jegsguillemot.wordpress.com/

Julian Swindell

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 682
Re: Touching up the woodwork
« Reply #4 on: 07 Feb 2013, 21:34 »
Woops, posted that last one on the wrong thread, should be about anchoring (I blame the weather, I'm short of vitamin D)
Julian Swindell
BayCruiser 20 Daisy Grace
http://jegsboat.wordpress.com/
Guillemot building blog
https://jegsguillemot.wordpress.com/

Jonathan Stuart

  • Administrator
  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 614
Re: Touching up the woodwork
« Reply #5 on: 16 Feb 2013, 08:04 »
I wondered the same thing so had asked Matt and he confirms he still uses Sikkens Cetol Filter 7. Teak colour on hardwood, rubbing strake, gunwales, etc, and pine colour on spars.
Jonathan

Ex - BayCruiser 26 #11 "Bagpuss"
Ex - BayRaider Expedition #3 "Mallory"

BobT

  • Sr. Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 139
Re: Touching up the woodwork
« Reply #6 on: 01 May 2015, 18:30 »
Can any one provide some advice (other than "carefully") on how to avoid scratching the gel-coat when rubbing down the woodwork before touching up with Sikkens, especially around the rubbing strip on the BRe.

Bob
BRe Escape
Bob
BRe "Escape"

Rob Johnstone

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 399
Re: Touching up the woodwork
« Reply #7 on: 01 May 2015, 18:43 »
I used masking tape as a sacrificial strip to protect the hull whilst rubbing down the top and bottom faces of the rubbing strake on Vagabond - it was sort of successful - but the word "carefully" was still appropriate. Removing it, before applying new masking tape prior to painting was another matter.........I dod wonder if Gaffer tape would have been a better sacrificial strip but have yet to try it.
Rob J
Matt Newland designed but self built 15ft one off - "Lockdown". Ex BC23 #10 "Vagabond" and BC 23 # 54 "Riff Raff"

maxr

  • Full Member
  • ***
  • Posts: 86
Re: Touching up the woodwork
« Reply #8 on: 04 May 2015, 14:20 »
Gaffer tape varies greatly in quality and tack, but it's often a pretty blunt instrument. Some sticks hard enough to pull tufts of pile out of carpet and patches of paint off a stage (I've seen both), some has uneven tack (so paint might get under the edge) and some leaves a sticky residue on hard surfaces. Most is not specifically designed to be waterproof, although some is. Perhaps top quality masking tape might be the answer?