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91
Technical / Re: Outboard carry bag
« Last Post by Ape Ears on 10 Apr 2024, 14:22 »
Consider leaving in the outboard well , stowed transversely in the retracted position , secured with a ‘Motorloc’ Atlantic Slot Lock 170 , with suitable padding like Force4 flat fenders above and below , suitably lashed down.

There has been previous debate whether outboard needs to be removed, kept upright or can be tilted for towing. Yamaha 6HP can be upright, tilted on either side or face down, without risk of oil leak, according to manual.

 Kind regards, Andrew
92
For Sale and Wanted / Re: BRe HOMER coming to the market
« Last Post by Llafurio on 09 Apr 2024, 20:51 »
HOMER is a specially hardened BayRaider Expedition for harbour hopping on the open coast around the island of Ireland. On the other side, it is also a conventional cabin sailing dinghy which can be trailered easily to all european in- and offshore destinations, and can be rigged and launched from any slipway, in minutes.
She has been sailed in raids in Ireland, Scotland and the Netherlands.

The key HOMER modifications were inspired by original British rowing lifeboats and the subsequent  ocean rowing boats, with enough watertight buoyancy on the fore and aft superstructure to automatically destabilise the boat after a potential full inversion at sea. For this, the cabin got a watertight hatch, and a buoyancy dome was built over the stern, which now also houses the main electronics, GPS, Echo and fixed VHF, in easy reach of the helm. Two solar panels on either side of the dome provide ample battery charging. Btw, the buoyancy dome can be removed again.

As there is a risk for the BayRaiders’ and BayRaiders Expedition stability in tough conditions at sea through unvoluntary filling of the standard deep stowage lockers, I had the yard install false floors in the lockers at the level of the cockpit floor. Any water getting in the stowage lockers now drains out automatically into the self.draining cockpit, through new wide diameter one-way valves. The new tank cavity between false floor and main ballast tank can either be filled with sea- or fresh water for additional righting and supply, or can be left dry. There are shut off valves for self draining these tanks through the main ballast tank.
Then, the rudder fittings on the transom were reinforced, a stronger tiller was made, and the rudderhead was made to be serviceable at sea.
There are extra fittings on the cabin and the stern dome roof to lash the masts down firmly in preparation for a severe blow. There are extra handrails in the cockpit and on the buyoancy dome to give the crew better hold.
I made the compression post inside the cabin easily removable for more comfortable overnighting, and added storage bags in the cockpit and inside the cabin. There is a jumbo size waterproof bean bag inside the cabin for comfort and emergency buoyancy.
The centerboard got a proper downhaul. The main ballastwater tank drainholes were made bigger, and two manual bailing pumps were installed.
The structural works were done by a reputed yard in UK which specialises in building ocean rowing boats.
Comes with brandnew (unused) „USA“ carbon main mast and Bermudan mainsail.
Antifouling: International VC Offshore, red.
Engraved curved teak nameplate on transom.
Snap shackles where practical. Jib with stronger luff wire. Pulley system for jib halyard tensioning / main mast stepping. Mizzen: Stronger and stiffer mizzen mast. Reinforced no-twist mast socket. Allen hinge gooseneck for boom. Set of 10" oars. Tiller tamer. Automatic ballast tank airvent.  Additional and improved self bailers for sump / ballast tank.
Comes with low-hour Suzuki 2.5 outboard, and braked launching cradle road trailer in perfect condition.
Anchor, and fenders included. Ready to sail. € 22,500.00
(Photos show Homer with Gunter rig.)
93
Technical / Outboard carry bag
« Last Post by RogerLennard on 09 Apr 2024, 20:32 »
I've got a Yamaha 6hp outboard that I intend to put in the boot of my car when towing the BR20 around. Since outboards are somewhat unwieldy and prone to being scratched, I was hoping to get hold of a padded carrier for the thing. The best I've found on the internet seem to be very flimsy dustcovers. I quite fancy making my own 'bespoke' padded carrier. Does anyone have a pattern or suggestions for materials for construction please?
How do you transport your outboard, while keeping it safe?

Best regards

Roger
94
Technical / Re: Glue/sealant question
« Last Post by garethrow on 09 Apr 2024, 15:42 »
Charles
If you haven't finished removing your rubbing strakes / batteling with the Bostick glue, a good tip I picked up from the  yard is to use a sawing motion with long pieces of cheese wire to cut through the glue. This does work but you get through a lot of wire as it gets very hot - hot enough to alter the tempering of the wire which then tends to kink and snap. I did this to get my locker fender tie off rails off for varnishing.

Regards
Gareth Rowlands
GRP BR20 Halen Y Mor
95
For Sale and Wanted / Re: 'CRAIC' SeaRaider No1 for Sale.
« Last Post by Ape Ears on 09 Apr 2024, 11:41 »
Now Sold. My thanks to all who have shown interest, and specifically to Matt, Lara and Michelle from Swallow Yachts Brokerage. 
96
I should add that “Pippin” has been welcomed to a number of OGA events, and other regattas.  She has had a pretty good run of success in her racing at Falmouth Classic Regatta, the Royal Dartmouth Regatta, The Caledonia Raid, Helford (OGA), Plymouth (OGA), and the Swallow Mylor rally.
So, Yes, she is always welcomed by OGA.
97
For Sale and Wanted / Baycruiser 23 "Equinox" For Sale
« Last Post by Ewanjack on 08 Apr 2024, 13:54 »
Very sadly we have outgrown our much loved BC23, sail number 25 built 2014.
Now looking to sell....somewhere around £35k
Fairly comprehensive package:

Burgundy Red hull
Performance pack
Through bulwark fairlead
Asymmetric spinnaker
Tiller extension
Boom bag and lazy jacks
Mercury 6hp
Solar panels
Snipe trailer
Porta Loo

Otherwise all standard additions.

Boat is in dry storage in our barn in Dorset.

Happy to answer any questions or send additional photos.

Pls contact me on:
Ewanjack15@gmail.com

Many thanks,  Ewan McIntyre
98
Technical / Re: Glue/sealant question
« Last Post by Charles Scott on 08 Apr 2024, 11:24 »
Thank you Sea Simon.  I have now sent off for the Bostik.   
   Anyone need 2 tubes of CT 1 going cheap ?!
99
Technical / Re: Glue/sealant question
« Last Post by Sea Simon on 07 Apr 2024, 21:48 »
Interesting...Plymouth Uni (my v v long ago Alma Mater, a humble Poly back then...).
I viewed these three then very much unloved boats at QAB marina,  Plymouth in 2017. All a bleddy disgrace, and I told the Uni bosun so. I offered to buy a melange of the best of the 3 (having picked thru the Sails, spars and trailers too) but my low offer was somewhat "ungraciously refused"...I  left all 3 behind and brought a BRe! Have mentioned these boats on here before!
Would never have happened in my day, etc, etc..... ;)

CT1. I've had good results bonding and sealing internally, but this formulation seems perhaps less tolerant of seawater and/or UV when used externally? The "beige" shade is usefully tonal with the off white yard finishes.
The yard Bostik stuff seems good?

Latest experience was a pal who used CT1 to fix his saildrive fairing diaphragm to the Hull (not a Swallow boat). Very  poor results, failed in weeks. I did mine with RHiB repair materials and no sign of movement, peeling or detachment of any sort at the end of season. Of course, any adhesive application to used items as a repair (even more so than production use, on new materials in more controlled conditions) can be very variable.

Others on here will be better placed than me to advise on your particular application, I suspect?

PS . I'm closer even than Plymouth  to the equator  8)
100
Technical / Re: Glue/sealant question
« Last Post by Charles Scott on 07 Apr 2024, 16:45 »
Sea Simon, I am interested in your remarks about CT1, as I have just bought some to fix new rubbing strakes on my Bayraider 20. May I ask in what way were your results mixed? Removing the remains of the old strakes has been ( is being ) quite a job, whatever they were stuck on with before ( black colour, presumably Sikaflex or the Bostik mentioned by you and Graham ) being the very devil to take off.  The remains of the old strakes ( partially rotted from years of neglect , some mine, but most by the previous owner, Plymouth university) having to be chiselled off and destroyed in the process. In my naivete, I had thought I would take out the screws, and then simply peel off the strakes . Ha Ha!  It proves the yard's black stuff is very effective anyway, but I hope I haven't done the wrong thing buying CT1 instead.  I also have to replace the old white sealant in the join between the cockpit floor and sides, as this has degraded after being exposed to UV light during its University years living on a  pontoon, in the Plymouth sun ( a lot closer to the equator than Co.Mayo where I keep my boat.)
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